TRAVELS IN THE EAST,

1850-51.

CHAPTER I.

Eastern Travel-Discomforts of Starting-The Train-Arrival at Southampton-Embarkation on board the Steamer-Passengers-Their reserve wears off-English Clergyman--Coast of SpainTrafalgar Bay-Gibraltar-Etna-Arrival at Malta-Sight-seeing at Malta-Diversified Population-Padre Ryllo-His hapless fate -Greece-Mitylene and Tenedos -Troy and Olympus - Arrival at Constantinople-Early Impressions of that City rectified— Departure for Smyrna.

If anything could have dispelled the enchantments of Eastern travel, it would have been the discomfort of the start: the body, a rebellious subject, and perfectly unequal to the spirit that governs it, will often not see sense, or obey even necessity. Mine had kept a lively watch all the night, and had sunk into a profound slumber just as the servant called me. At the same time he added a warning to rise quickly or I should be too late. A sailor alone understands punctuality in rising; he is ready to the moment; but your landman either

VOL. 1

B

2

ARRIVAL AT SOUTHAMPTON.

over-does it, or is hours too late the former was

my fate.

After a hasty toilet, and one look at my dear sleeping mother, my companion and myself found ourselves at the train as the earliest porter was opening the door. No fire, stale gas, and a cold, grey, damp mist;—but all things must have an end. More railway functionaries dropped in; the ticket clerk was at his post; the old lady in the corner of the office pulled out buns that had been fresh once, and were, she maintained, fresh still, and disposed them on the cloth; cabs drove up feebly, and deposited their passengers noisily; porters rushed here and there; the news-boys shouted and waved damp newspapers about; the whistle sounded, and we were off on our first stage.

Arriving at Southampton nearly as per trainpaper, there was breakfast to be eaten, not because we were hungry, but as a point to get over, and purchases before forgotten, to be made. Then, when once among the shops of that pretty cheerful town, (I have been there very often, and the sun always shone brightly,) there were seducing tradesmen tempting to

RESERVE OF ENGLISH TRAVELLERS.

3

delay, till nothing but a hasty run saved our passage.

We found a boat with Her Majesty's mails about to go off, and for these alone our steamer was waiting far down the river. The guard strongly opposed our entry; but being in the boat, and she off from land, he turned moodily sulky, and sternly refused to answer any of our enquiries. Our introduction to the steamer was undignified, being effected by climbing over the bows, amidst the compliments of the crew, who probably doubted our gentility, or took us for bailiffs or runaways. Walking aft, however, we assumed the proper gait, nor could we help congratulating ourselves on the size and appearance of the noble vessel.

It is curious to observe stranger English when brought together. At first, each walked the deck with the one he knew, or alone; the rest were passed as if introduction was creation, and before making their acquaintance they were not; some were scuffling for cabins, surprised to find that the elaborate drawing, with numbers and dimensions, at the office in town, did not represent the real vessel afloat. The passage paidparting's follies-tears' nonsensenonsense-the regular

4

PASSENGERS IN THE STEAMER.

form was gone through. The vessel cleared: Go

ahead! sounded merrily-to me at least—and we were off:

"I depart,

Whither I know not; but the hour's gone by,

When Albion's lessening shore could grieve or glad mine eye.”

Desks now appeared, new and shining onesthose latest gifts to the writers-youth, bound on its first voyage. Soon the paper was covered; promises made; vows vowed, that a few months would prove false, and the paper alone retain the impression of. It was early spring, and the weather keen, so the stove introduced many.

66

A

few coals, if you please, sir," and we knew each other; a nudge of one's chair, so as to let another crowd round, produced very favourable impressions; and before Cape St. Vincent was rounded we were all old friends.

There was the cadet, half ambitious, yet half boy, and anxious to be at home; the young lady, already practising the arts that were to make her future lot; the tourist for pleasure, eager to get on; the man of business, frantic for news; the regular John Bull with his English eyes, going to see all, through English lens; the gentleman with

A CONSCIENTIOUS CLERGYMAN.

5

his real perfections, and all the rest. Among the many, though, I must distinguish one-a small, round, cosy, rosy man: anybody could see he was a clergyman, with a good digestion, and fond of his comforts. I had at this time taken rather a dislike to his class. My sojourn in England had shown me a Church warring only against herself; with huge inert power, she was tearing herself with her own arms Charity banished from her synodsthe spark was but wanting to ignite the whole. We had our quota of martial men; we had more than our proportion of men who earn a livelihood by the sword; yet I found that the small lowly figure, and common-place appearance of the clergyman, covered more heroism than we could boast of altogether.

He had returned to England after long pastorship in the East, his wife and children unable to bear its sultry heat. After twenty years he was compelled to leave his flock, and seek for health in his native land. Here he found every temporal comfort, and a home; but his spirits sank. Where were the friends, the fellow-communicants of years? Where the men whom as babes he had enlisted as followers in the cause of our Lord? Where the mild