APPROACH TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

11

course at the Dardanelles, or Cape Janissary. The Dardanelles are by far the most picturesque part of the passage to the Black Sea. The weather was fine, and, though cool, not cold; all were on deck, and this oft admired scene received its well deserved praise. We stayed again between Sestos and Abydos, to get pratique, and here caught our first glimpse of the real East. The town, on the Asiatic side, is a quaint place, the buildings of wood, in a truly Turkish state of repair. The crowds of Turks; the noise of the boatmen; the immobility of the Mussulmans; the cypress, minaret, and tomb lands, all reminded me of years long passed, when scarce a man, and all a boy in enthusiasm and ardour, I first wandered over Asia. Now, though older grown and sedate, the scene worked its way, and old feelings of ardour revived at the thoughts of the journey before me. I now saw, however, what fancy hid in years gone bythat the houses were of wood, and the country around a desert.

Again we are roused from our slumbers"Stamboul! Stamboul!" The first approach, however, to the deck, dispelled all illusions conjured up by the semi-magic call. In the words of

12

MISSERI'S HOTEL AT PERA.

Anastasius, Constantinople in all its grandeur rose before us. Alas! in the concluding words of his apostrophe, he owns it was an illusion our visions were dispelled. Snow, thick and deep, enveloped the town; cupola, dome, and cypress were burdened with icicles above was an angry and a wintry sky, while the wind was keenly piercing; and it was with no regret we returned below to breakfast. A boat carried us afterwards to a wet, dirty yard, where amidst noise and confusion, porters carrying charcoal, others unshipping lime, our luggage was left till it suited the convenience of the officers to examine it, who full well knew that a message from the British Consul would be sent, and they would be compelled to let it through at once.

All one's attention was necessary on the way to the hotel; for the streets were knee-deep in snow and mud, and more fell in showers from the eaves of the houses. Misseri's Hotel, in Pera, is about a mile from the water side, up the hill of Galata, steep always, and now, from ice, rain, and mud, nearly impracticable. However, we plunged down the hole his house is in with joy, and forgot our cares, in the comforts of his hotel. For three

FROLIC OF ENGLISH YOUTH.

13

days we were blockaded by the weather; snow fell constantly, and the English fires and English coals were the best things I saw. Once, with desperate energy, I mounted the tower of Galata; but the view was only a greater extent of snow, and I pitied the ancient Genoese watcher whose ward fell in winter.

Again in a sedan to the Embassy, a huge penitentiary style of building on my way home at night, somebody-an English youth or youthsjoined the hinder bearer, raced with the sedan down a steep street, and finally overturned it in a snow-drift. Their laugh, as I emerged from the cold mass, reminded me of my old misdeeds; so the hotel received me in a subdued philosophic mood, but very wet. It was most assuredly useless as far as seeing anything else but snow, to remain ; we therefore embarked on board an Austrian Lloyds steamer, bound for Smyrna.

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THE SMYRNA STEAMER.

CHAPTER II.

Leave-taking on board the Smyrna Steamer-Captain-Dinner of the Passengers-Carouse-French Packet in Distress-Touch at Tenedos-Arrival at Smyrna-Population-Increase of Buildings Bazaars-Jewish Quarter-Bournabat-Caravan Bridge-Baths of Diana-Burial Grounds-View from the Castle-Turkish Quarter-Arch near the Amphitheatre-A Turkish Beauty — Case of doubtful Justice Statue of Polycarp-Brief Notice of him-Alleged Miracle at his Death.

As we mounted the side of the steamer the crew were shovelling the deep drift off the deck, so we rushed below, where fifty Greek friends were bidding adieu to a dozen or more Greek passengers. Wine,-light in summer, vinegar now,was drunk to friendship; all smoked, and every egress for the smoke being shut, the smell and noise drove us on deck, till the snow and cold again drove us below. Here our fellows were maudlin and kissing; more wine; more vapid cigarets. The agent of the vessel was signing more paper than an English firm would use in months. Why is it that foreigners use so much paper in all business transactions? At last there was quiet :

1

DINNER IN THE CABIN.

15

the friends kissed, knocked glasses, kissed and

departed.

We were at war with the captain at once; for on asking for the stove, he said it had been forgotten; so we grumbled at everything. At four a start was pronounced impossible this we said was ridiculous, as the day was clear though the snow fell fast: the battle of words continued till dinner was ready. Let me record this meal, which resembled all others on board the same vessel ; but not (I trust for the comfort of travellers,) to be found elsewhere. Fancy a narrow, long cabin, the bulkheads beautifully varnished, the sofas, &c. perfect; the skylights and all other air-holes carefully closed; the whole atmosphere redolent of bad tobacco smoke. Fifteen persons were seated at a table sufficient for eight. These consisted of eleven Greeks of the Fanar and Smyrna, (who used their forks like harpoons, grasping them with the whole hand, low down, and their knives as forks-save when they likewise performed the duty of salt-spoons,) two officers, and ourselves. On the table were two plates of unripe oranges; two saucers of pickles ; two ditto of salt Chilis; two wine-glasses of tooth