CORN-HOLES. THEIR USES.

191

levelled, save that here and there one stone stood on end. There were a few columns, watertroughs, and corn-holes in plenty. By corn-holes I mean circular excavations built up in the earth, and plastered within, opening by a circular hole at the top; on this fits a cover. When this is full, the inhabitants secure the entrance with clay. The villagers store all their grain in this way throughout the plains; the mouth is a little raised above the surrounding level, so as to throw off the rain the natives call it Aar. Jarapolis occurs to me as the only place whose position would coincide with the situation of these ruins; nor is there such a dissimilarity in the names as not to allow an inference from it-Aar and Jar, or Jaara.

In an hour passed on the right of a small village containing a ruined mosque and a tel, on which were heaps of ruined stones: the name given was Heish-the plain more and more undulating. About one and a half south-west of Marah, I left the road to visit some ruins I observed on my left, standing on the breast of a hill. Several walls, of large massive stones, well built, were still standing; and the whole hill, for two miles or more one way, and certainly five or six in circum

192

THE VIEW OF RUINS DEPRESSING.

ference, was literally deep in stones squared for building, and fallen columns. In some places the stones, all huge, had been arranged so as to form inclosures for herds of sheep and goats, which were now spread over the plain grazing, under the protection of armed villagers from the surrounding villages.

It is a sad and mournful feeling that comes over us as we thus sit gazing at ruins—at decay ; to see thus a stately city crumbled down, nor know who built it,-when, or how, it was built.

The wild waste of all devouring years,
How

her own sad sepulchre appears;
With nodding arches, broken temples spread,
The very tombs now vanished, like their dead.

Imperial wonders raised on nations spoiled,

Where mixed with slaves the groaning martyr toiled.

Some felt the silent stroke of mouldering age;

Some hostile fury; some religious rage;

Barbarian blindness, Christian zeal conspire,

And Papal piety, and Gothic fire.

To the south remains one corner of a wall, some forty feet high, built of stones five feet long by three thick, broad, and uncemented. In several other places, portions of walls are still standing; but the ground is too much encumbered with ruins to trace any building with accuracy. I also found the subscribed sign, which I copied. In

RUINS OF BEAUTIFUL BUILDINGS.

193

another portion is a wall and spring of an arch, most delicately executed, which in its style and workmanship reminded me of Baalbec. The minute tracery here, as also on many other stones I noticed, was beautifully cut, and as fresh and sharp as if yesterday from the hands of the sculptor. The place seemed to have been ruined by a sudden shock, and this one remnant alone left, to make us, by its beauty, mourn for the rest. So perfect was each broken portion, that it seemed as if the spirit of old, of evil, and of death, had breathed his destructive breath, and, in one minute, blasted the whole. No corners were worn with the dull edge of ages-sharp and clear destruction seems to have blasted them in their beauty.

At the corner is a small pilaster on the wall, more Corinthian than anything else, but richly ornamented to the right is one protected, over it a niche, merely cut deep and clear; below, on a lower range, are two others; beneath them is a niche like a scallop, and the ruins of several others lie about. The whole bears a striking resemblance to the gate of the famous temple of Baalbec, and I cannot but think the same hands built both. I

attempted to explore some vaulted passages, but from want of candles, was forced to return. The natives knew no other name than Knack. After

a lengthened stay, I left, and cantered on to Marra.

REMAINS OF THE CASTLE OF MARRA.

195

CHAPTER XIII.

The present village of Marra-Its Appearance-Inhabitants-A Turkish Answer-Crusaders and Saracens-Cruelties and Barbarities of Crusaders-Sacking of Marra under Bohemond-Khan SebelDishonesty of Turkish officials-Sermeim to Aleppo-Approach to that City-Its Walls-Mode of Life and Habits of Aleppenes— Bazaars and Streets of Aleppo-American Missionaries thereHungarians--General Bem-Gate of Fair Prospect Strange Custom of the Ladies of Aleppo-Visit to Mussulman Tombs-The Beautiful House of the Family of Sada-General Indolence at Aleppo-Turkish Servants-Vaccination for the Aleppo Button-That Disease Described-Curious Cure-The Slave and his Master.

THE present village of Marra lies on the side of a hill; pretty fields and plantations stretch away, till lost in the distance at the foot of the Ansayrii Mountains. Beyond, to the west, are the remains of the Castle, famous in crusading annals, built of huge stones. Amidst its now crumbling ruins, live eleven families, principally inhabiting its old vaults. The ditch, deep and broad, is cut out of the solid rock. The inhabitants are now entirely Mussulman; the town, flat roofed and unwalled, presents the usual, half-ruinous appearance of all Eastern places. The mosque, or rather the