246 DEPARTURE FROM THE KHAN KHANTAFF.

CHAPTER XVI.

Departure from Aleppo-Halam-Muselmeicha-Meheritei to Ze Maled-Dilatoriness of Eastern Travelling—Advice to Eastern Travellers-A Spell to propitiate Relations to a Marriage-Arrival at Aintab-Put under Quarantine-Quarters there-Purveyor of Stores in the Quarantine-His mode of keeping Accounts-Doctor Smith, the American Missionary-Difficulties attending his Settling at Aintab-His persecution by the Armenians-Progress of Protestantism in Aintab-The Bishop-His School-Castle-View from the Wall-Conversion of the Armenians-Their better Treatment of Women-Departure from Aintab.

I WOULD fain have visited Hierapolis, where Julian collected his forces for the great Eastern expedition. It lies not far N.N.E. of Aleppo, and being out of the regular route, is seldom visited. I had found an account of ruins in an old paper of the old Asiatic Society's transactions, whose position struck me as referable to it; but a person who had joined our party, having over-ruled my wish, behold us again on the well-beaten track.

We emerged from the Khan Khantaff, where we had resided, our horses fresh from their long rest, and making a detour, went to pay our respects to the consul. We went to Catab, a

ARRIVAL AT HALAN.

247

suburb of the town, where the Frank residents have houses. It is a small place, and joins the

town itself. The air, however, is

and cooler than that of Aleppo.

said to be purer

Turning north

again, we rested, after some half hour's ride, at a garden, and whiled away the heat of the day, which, even at this early time of the year (May 2nd), is sufficiently intense. The shade was good, and we should have enjoyed it, had it not been for our horses breaking loose, and fighting furiously. A grey of mine, the most vicious brute I ever saw, well-supported a name he had previously earned, Ibn Haram, "the son of wickedness."

At four we mounted, and, bidding adieu to our friend the Doctor, who had accompanied us thus far, we started. An hour's walking-pace brought us to Halan, a small Mussulman village; in another half-hour we reached Muselmeicha. The houses, about fifty in number, are of mud, and of a conical form. Our road had lain north along a half cultivated stony plain; the town rose, however, well and strong. On our right lay a range of low stony hills.

The sheik, or head of the village, came and paid his respects, and for ten piastres, or about 2s. 2d., furnished our horses with cut grass, and

248

MEHERITEI TO TEL MALED.

gave us two guards to watch the encampment. Seeing the animal I rode was of value, they hobbled him with iron hobbles, secured with a padlock, and at last, not satisfied of his safety, locked him up in the house. If the proper pronunciation of the name of the village is Meheritei, it may be traced to a Syrian origin; but all the people pronounced it as I have written it above. As the district of Halan, or Hailan, however, is also expressed by a Syrian word, the term Meheitei may be more correct.

May 3rd.-Meheritei to Tel Maled three hours and a half. One is almost ashamed to write on paper such a day's journey; but those who follow may find my remarks and itinerary useful. Should any do so

"If on ye swell

A single recollection, not in vain

I've worn the sandal shoon and scallop shell."

It is vain to say we were lazy; the reader may see that, first, the horses kicked off their loads, then the muleteer had to finish his pipe before he loaded them. Nor in this business are any of the Easterns adepts; they pass ropes and cords round the loads, and pack-saddles, which are huge packs

ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS.

249

stuck full of straw; but adjustment is constantly required, and they have little idea of balancing the whole properly. The muleteers are a troublesome race, and further experience has led me constantly to travel with my own horses; because, first, the muleteers will not deviate from the regular road: next; will not perform, even when occasion requires, a forced march-and then constant trouble is made about the loads, journeys, &c.

To all who study economy let me recommend purchasing horses. I do not allude to those who wish to hurry furiously on, let them ride post; but to the general traveller. He may buy a good most for baggage or

horse for three pounds at

servants; his food will be fourpence, or less, if he has several, a-day; one penny, or less, in the interior, and he will sell the animal for his value when he has done with him.

Our road lay along a plain completely sown with corn. We passed a small lake on our left, crossed the Chalus river, and rested for sometime in some Turkoman tents. They are similar to those of the Arabs. The women's apartment was screened off. We did not see the dames, but their voices were not low or smothered. One of the men

250

TURKOMANS AND KOORDS.

asked me, "What can you want fine horses for ?" regarding my really handsome steed with admiration; "you do not make war on the Arabs; you do not steal mares; what can you want with them?"

We lost our way, and coming up with our servants, found they had waited for us; so we pitched our tents and resolved to wait for the night. Two names were given to the village built on a tel, or mound-Tel Maled or Tel Their. The road we passed over abounded with these mounds: many, no doubt, are artificial, but the whole cannot be so. Probably, one of them was Tel Bashier, or Bashae, the supposed site of the castle that made such a gallant resistance to the Crusaders on their advance to Bir, when they went to the conquest of Elwa.

May 4th, 1850.-What with bathing, idling, visiting, &c., it was two P.M. before we started. The Tel was a wretched village, or collection of huts and tents, inhabited by a variety of races, Turkomans, some few Koords, Arabs, gypsies, &c. The Turkomans move their tents only a few yards, or at most, a mile, so, strictly speaking, they can hardly be classed as migratory; the othersexcept the Koords, who do much the same-come