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extolling their merits. They dash off at full gallop, stand up in their stirrups, and throw him suddenly on his haunches. This is one of their greatest acquirements in native eyes, and, of course, puts the poor brute to much torture, as it strains the body and legs, and the cruel bit is much used. It has, however, one advantage, that the eye can at once detect any unsoundness. While the auctioneer is galloping about in this manner, he shouts the price, and either diminishes or increases it, as offers are made; but, generally, as the ideas of the owner and purchaser relative to his value differ, it resembles a Dutch auction. Twelve piastres, or about 2s. 2d., are given by the seller to the auctioneer, and the bit, if it is a riding-horse, is included in the purchase.

The Turks of Damascus are famed for their fanaticism, but late acts of the consuls had conciliated them. The government of the Porte had kindly offered to take charge of the title deeds of such as had them, and further stated. their intention of raising a tax on all increase of property. This the consuls represented as unfair and destructive; it was therefore petitioned against, and through the ambassadors the petition

THE GARDENS OF DAMASCUS.

131

received a favourable reception. Many old and fine families of Mussulmans reside here, and also there is, what elsewhere in the Ottoman dominions has no existence, an hereditary Saracenic nobility-families descended from the conquerors-collateral descendants of Abubeker and others, who for years have given Pashas to the empire. Many of the Christians also claim high and proud descent; but boast more of their faithful adherence to the faith of their fathers through good and much evil, through generations of persecutions, spoliations, and oppression.

The beauty of the gardens of Damascus are proverbial; historic through Pliny and Kinglake, on them each traveller has lavished his praises as Nature has poured on them her beauties. Let me, then, quote the words of Eothen's closing account of them :

"Never for an instant will the people of Damascus attempt to separate the idea of bliss from these wild gardens and rushing waters, even where your best affections are concerned. And you -prudent preachers hold hard and turn aside. when they come near the mysteries of the happy state and we (prudent preachers too) will hush

132 INTENDED DEPARTURE FROM DAMASCUS.

our voices, and never reveal to finite beings the joys of the earthly paradise."

We found upon inquiry that it was impossible to proceed to Aleppo without a large escort. The Arabs were plundering and at open war with the Pasha, who had a short time previously entertained two of their sheiks, who had entered the town. under a promise of safe conduct, in his house, and for fear of their tiring of his hospitality had given them an underground apartment, well secured. Subsequently, finding them still insensible to his kindness, he had administered a pleasant potion, which had so strangely disagreed with their stomachs, that after a short illness they died.

A regiment, however, was about to march to fodder their horses at Homs, and we were allowed to take advantage of their escort. All the necessary preparations were soon completed, and we prepared to bid adieu to Damascus.*

Since the above was written, I saw a note in Mr. Buckingham's Travels, which says, that some of the older writers (who?) considered Damascus as the ancient city of the Jews, i. e. the city of Abram. How can the text, Genesis, xv. 2, ever lead to such a supposition? Quoting from the same author, he says, that the Syrian kings boast their descent in a direct line from Semiramis, and that the city received its name from a king so called.

WE LEAVE DAMASCUS.

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CHAPTER IX.

Last Look at Damascus Scenery on the Journey-Cultivation of the Soil-Douna-Dead Camels-An irregular Soldier-Pay of his Force-The Persian Shauzerdah and the English Ambassador, touching the relative Merits of British and Persian Soldiers--Escort -Castal-Nepth-Jacobites-Houses of Nepth-Dispense Medicines-Arrive at Karah-Opinion of England by the Officers of the Escort Interesting Ruins-Conversation with the Villagers-Visits from the Sick-What they were prescribed.

APRIL 9th, 1850-Damascus to Kiafta, six hours. -We were not off till nine, * as the day's journey was short, we having only to overtake the cavalry, who, marching slowly, had started the previous evening. Passing out of the northern gate, our road lay over a paved chaussée, gardens, water, and mud walls on all sides, and it was at least an hour before we reached the open country. Here we halted, and took our last look at the beautiful place we were leaving. The town reposed in a mass of verdure, smothered, as it were,

My stay at Damascus, the reader may observe, had been very short; but on previous visits I had spent some time there; and it was during these, that the information contained in the previous chapter was obtained.

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CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL.

in its own beauty, while a few cupolas alone were visible over the green sea of trees; here and there the cypress towered up, saddening, as the poet says, the sacred mosque; there an opening revealed the gleaming turrets or the gay kiosk.

The open country that succeeded was most richly cultivated, and the labourers were busy irrigating the fields. For a description of the method, I cannot do better than refer the reader to the Thousand-and-One Nights: as it was done then, so it is now, and the result certainly is perfect. Others were ploughing with the light plough so often described, drawn by a pair of the small handsome oxen of the country. The spade is of a peculiar shape; it is entirely of wood, sometimes, but rarely, shod with iron, and is sadly inefficient. It exactly resembles one of the pieces used in the game of spillikins, and a curious inquiry might be made from it into their origin.

If the ground is required to be turned up beyond the depth to which the plough attains, a broad board, sharpened on one side, is used; to this is fixed a handle. One man uses it as a spade, digging it into the dusty earth, while two others pull it over by a string attached to its surface.