140

EASTERN FAITH IN FRANK WISDOM.

cultivated, and, possessing irrigation, is no doubt

very fertile.

The priest showed me over his church, the neatness and order of which did him great credit he showed me some old Greek books, and appeared much surprised at my being able to read and translate them.

Served out a great number of harmless medicines. Having at all times very small faith in doctors, I am convinced that half and more of the cure is the effect of imagination. Surely, then, it is but kind to humour these poor people; and besides they never attach the smallest belief to one's denial of medical knowledge.

One poor woman besought me most importunately to visit her son. On acceding to her request I found him far too ill for me to venture to doctor him, and therefore offered to fetch the Turkish doctor to see him, as I knew nothing of medicine. She said to me, "Of what use is a Turk or an Arab? I know their knowledge, but want yours, the Frank wisdom." Read the priest a lecture on his duties, when I found all the Moslem boys could read, while few of those of his flock could.

Nebk is governed by five sheiks or elders; has five mosques, two churches.

DEPARTURE OF OUR ESCORT.

141

April 11th,-Nebk to Karah, two and three quarter hours. Off with the soldiers. The river has its rise (eight hours) about thirty miles east of the village, among some low hills that break the plain, and appears to be lost again to the south-east of Zebdani. The natives called the hills where it took its rise, Djebel Djouk. The road ran N.N.E. for an hour over a hill and undulated plain; then leaving a village, Daratea, on our right, we rode nearly east. The natives call the AntiLebanon, Djebel Museri, and a range that ran east, and before us, Djebel Deratea.

Reached Karah early, encamped in an old tomb. The people told us Ibrahim Pasha had pitched his tents in the same place on his way to Aleppo, just before Nezeeb; "Beware," they said, “of bad luck.” Our tents just fitted it nicely. The colonel and his officers paid us a visit, when we thanked them for their escort, they us for our company. Complained of service amidst such savages as the Arabs, and that Stamboul was the only place to live in. We nodded, drank coffee, and puffed our pipes. The chief grievance seemed to be leaving Damascus, their wives, and comforts: they departed wondering profoundly why we travelled,

142

CONVERSATION WITH VILLAGERS.

and satisfied that ours must be a most wretched country, if we, of our own accord, changed it for this. The village of Karah, a wretched collection of mud hovels, contains 200 Mussulmans and 100 Christians. Around were the ruins of several fine khans, one evidently an old Christian church and convents attached; one of the mosques had also been a Christian church: its exterior was handsomely ornamented.

Sat in the sun and chatted with the fathers of the place, smoking our pipes; no grog-shops, no ale-houses. A meditative pipe and a sunny spot (for in the shade the air is still keen and cold) and then happiness is complete. Here they tell and hear tales or news-any thing interests this quiet people. Not boisterously gay, their enjoyment is expressed in quiet pleasure (kief-kief kateer). One told how Ibrahim Pasha's force in all the panoply of victory, had encamped where the Turkish troops now lay; how his Arabs and irregulars had dashed about, playing jereed, &c., in all the intoxication of a triumphant advance.

At sun-set the shouts of the troops recalled us; the scene was a most pleasing one: the lovely eve, the bleating flocks following the shepherds, the

THE SICK AND THEIR PRESCRIPTIONS.

143

dark ancient-looking khans, with the high-pointed arch entrance, the green mass of tents, the moving stream of life, the barren hills in the faint distance. Towards the south-west the mountains assumed a curious form, like following surfs petrified as they curled ready to burst upon the plain. Yet each crag in itself was sharp and angular, as if carved by a mason.

We were soon disturbed by a multitude of sick. It recalled to one's mind how in this land, of old, the same style of faces, probably in the same costumes, crowded to Him who healed. The lame, carried by the healthy; feeble mothers with sickly babes; hale men showing wounds long self-healed; others with or without complaints. A rope had to be put across the tents to keep off the crowd: behind this stood E. A servant attended with tumblers and water, and he administered seidlitz-powders to the mass, a specific for fevers, jaundice, ague, scrofula, sore eyes, fancies and frailties.

144

DEPART FROM KARAH.

CHAPTER X.

The Whirro-Sleight of hand of the Natives of Karah-Halt at a large Khan-Description of it-Son of the Montselim-Firing at a MarkMuskets of Damascus--Dine with the Montselim-His Guests-Their Manners - The Bedawee and his Evolutions-Mailed Bedawee Warriors The Old Man and the Fire-Beautiful Scenery-Hasiab -Populations of the Pashalics of Aleppo and Damascus-The Euruque and Koords.

APRIL 12th, Karah to Ekikopole, five and a half hours' plain. Made two halts during the march. Awoke by the shrill whirro* of a woman: it instantly occurred to us that one of the patients of yesterday had not recovered. It proved, however, only a demand for more physic. While our loads were packing, the colonel kindly sent us a guard, as he said the road was dangerous. The natives sat with us for a last talk: they picked E's pocket, and gave me the contents, at the same time picking mine and transferring the things

This dreadful cry is caused by vibrating the tongue up and down in the mouth, and patting the half-closed lips rapidly with the hand. It excites the Mussulman to any pitch, and is made use of by the fair sex on all occasions of excitement.