CASE OF DOUBTFUL JUSTICE.

23

would have been thrown before swine. My star was, however, in the ascendant-I was fated to

meet her again.

Smyrna is too travelled ground to need description. Visited twice a month by steamers, every shop-boy knows it well, has wandered over its bazaars, smoked his pipe at the Douane, and spoken of it as "the East." "the East." Let us hurry beyond, and on to the real East,-the far, far desert of the free.

It will not, however, be out of place here to mention an instance of rather doubtful justice, the theme of every tongue during our stay. England is a great nation, and Englishmen the greatest of people; there are, however, among English subjects some bad. Among these we may class many of the Greeks and Maltese that throng the Levant. Our government is jealous of all interference with her subjects by the Porte, and from the extreme difficulty of condemnation by a court at a distance, these blackguards are the terror of the towns; and yearly Pera is set on fire by these fellows in hopes of gain during the confusion.

At Smyrna, five or six men set all authorities at defiance, and became the terror of the place. After a long run of success, they resolved to attack

24

STATUE OF POLYCARP.

the Austrian consul's house, and meeting one of his native servants, made him promise under threats of death to leave a door open, and assist them in their adventure. Honest or frightened, he betrayed the plan to his master, who desired him to do as he had been commanded, but to warn him when a day was fixed. The evening arrived, the bolts were withdrawn, and armed kavaises ready within. The robbers, four in number, entered the house at the appointed time; and being allowed to penetrate to the inner court-yard, were there cut down. Not a scratch did the kavaises receive; so spite of assurances to the contrary, I believe the robbers were unarmed, as four men do not kill four without a wound. This certainly rid Symrna of a desperate gang; but the means can hardly be justified. Three were killed in the court, one managed to drag himself off, and died in a coffee-house close by.

Let us turn from such a dubious theme, and, ascending the castle hill, rest at its south-western gate. Cast the eye up the wall, and you will see a mark, as of something removed. There stood the statue of Polycarp,* martyred in the amphi

* Polycarp was born in the reign of Nero, and suffered martyrdom A. D., 167, at the age of 100 or 110 years. The flames according to

FATE OF THE MARTYR..

25

theatre after more years of usefulness than are usually given to man. His statue was piously replaced here with honour by the descendants of those to whom he had taught the way of life. Avoiding persecution, he had originally fled from the town; but being taken and brought back, he suffered, blessing the Christians, praying for his murderers, and thanking the Lord who deemed him worthy to suffer in His cause. His statue, now but a shapeless trunk of marble, lies in a hole at our feet; it was spared for many years, and but a short time since fell a prey to some fanatical Moslems. After a few days spent in seeing the immediate environs, in pretty rides and pleasant walks, we prepared to start in the Grand Turk steamer for Beyrout.

monkish legends, refused to burn him. On being struck with a spear, the blood flowed from his wounds so as to quench the flames. His soul, in the form of a dove, fled from the wound up to heaven. The statue was larger than life, and of white marble.

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DEPARTURE FROM SMYRNA.

CHAPTER III.

Departure from the Port-Passengers on board the Steamer-Scenes on Deck-Arrival at Rhodes-General Appearance-Where the Colossus probably stood-Tachtalu-Coast of Pamphylia-Anchor at Tarsus-Description of that place-The Ansaryii-Their Religion Alexandretta- - Town Harbour Pillar recording the Miracle of the Prophet Jonas-Kutchak Ali, the Robber Chief— Murder of Sir Christopher Jones, and by whom - The IssusDarius and Alexander-Tancred, and Godfrey of Boulogne-Beilan described Tomb of Abderahman Bey-Government of Ibrahim Pasha-Latakia, its ancient History-Wife of the British ConsulAspect of the Town of Latakia-Its Exports-Adjacent Country— Departure from Latakia.

ACCORDING to the singular circuitous mockery of business peculiar to the Turkish authorities, we had, after leaving the wharf where we had fee'd the officers to reimbark what we had previously fee'd them to land, to pull to the Lazaretto and take on board a health officer, though another had already preceded us. Arriving on board the steamer, no easy affair, as she was pitching and diving, and surrounded with other boats, we found her decks crowded with subjects of the Sultan. Masses encumbered the decks, and our voluminous baggage was thrown into the passive heap, and

PASSENGERS ON BOARD THE STEAMER.

27

kicked about until it found quiet in the hold. The numbers thus congregated were principally pilgrims, on their way to Jerusalem and to the Jordan; though others on more worldly journey bent, were mingled with the rest. Each family had taken a spot on the deck, and there, piled over with coverings, and surrounded with their goods, they remained during the voyage; one side of the after-deck was alone kept clear for the first-class passengers, and even this was often invaded by others who wisely remarked that we had cabins below.

Each family forms a scene in itself, and an epitome of life in the East is found by a glance around. Four merchants on their return from a trading tour, have bivouacked between the skylights; and they sing and are sick; call kief and smoke, with true Moslem indifference. On the starboard quarter, our notions of Eastern domesticity are sadly put out, for there a Moslem husband is mercilessly bullied by a shrill-voiced Houri. It is curious to observe her perseverance in covering her face, even during the agonies of sea-sickness. Their black servant has taken us into the number of licensed ones, and her veil