260

MORAL PROGRESS OF EASTERN WOMEN.

reports it in a perfect state-perhaps it is as useful in one state as in the other. In my want of all authorities, I do not recollect any instance of the mention of it in history. Timour took it, no resistance being offered, and here received the envoys of the Sultan of Egypt, A.D. 1400.

Our view enabled us to see the interior of a large khan, where yarn is sold by the women, they bringing in return raw cotton. By an old law, still in force, no man without a beard is allowed to enter, his discretion not being supposed capable of conducting him properly through so trying a scene. One mosque has a fine minaret, and, in its court, a noble tree.

The conversion of the Armenians has been a vast change for their women; they are now emancipated from the bondage they have so long been held in--I do not mean personal bondage, for perhaps there is less of it in the East than in the West-but their whole moral position has undergone a vast change. The man is now first taught that the woman is his best friend; his firmest, truest companion; his equal in the social scale, as God made her, a help meet for him, not a mere piece of household furniture. The woman is also

WOMEN PERMITTED TO PRAY WITH MEN. 261

taught to reverence the man as her head; thus imparting that beautiful lesson, “He for God only, she for God through him." She is also taught perhaps a harder lesson, a more painful task; to relinquish all her costly ornaments, when such may be more usefully employed in trade and traffic to consider necessaries more beautiful than costly clothes or embroidered suits. Gradually she is allowed to unite with the man in prayers, which is permitted by no sect in the East, women always having a portion of the church set apart for them, and the Moslems praying at different times. May it please Him who gives and dispenses all things, to prosper this and all other good and holy works!

A Frank traveller reached Aintab as we left; he would fain have joined our party, but was detained for quarantine. Winding out of the town, we passed over the hills that environ the town, and entered a pretty valley, through which the Sadschur river accompanies us. Here, at a small village called Naringa, we chose a pretty spot under some trees, and pitched our tents. The horses browsed at our door, the stream jumped by before us as we took our evening's repose. And

262

REPOSE AT NARINGA.

repose it is, to sit thus at the close of a day of travel, to enjoy the view of the lovely regions given man to dwell in, to see the various changes time, circumstances, and religion have wrought in the family of Adam, or, as the Arabs say, in the Beni Adam. It was a lovely evening; and as I reclined apart from my more gregarious fellowtravellers, I felt

"That the night was filled with music,

And the cares that infested the day,
Had folded their tents, like the Arab,
And as silently stolen away."

DEPARTURE FROM NARINGA.

263

CHAPTER XVII.

Naringa to Nezeb-Towns passed in our Way-Origin of Tels-Great Victory of Ibrahim Pasha described-Nezeb - Pilgrims from Bokhara First View of the Euphrates-Reflections suggested by it --Ancient Passages of the Euphrates-Pass that River-Town of Bir -Remains of its Castle-Spanish Monk- Beautiful SceneryDetention from the straying of the Baggage Horses-A Pasha-His Courtesy and Kindness-Nobbagee, or Musician-Charmelieh-Its curious Construction-Extraordinary Well-Arab Mode of churning Butter-Arrive at the ancient Ur of the Chaldees, now Orfa-Hospitality of the English Consular Agent-His Opinion of the Arab of the Desert.

MAY 10th.-Naringa to Nezeb, six hours and thirty-five minutes.

We left our encampment, and passed the village of Kurdagee on our right; in one hour and a half passed Jorkadeir, and in three hours forty-five minutes passed Orrull on our right, and Negaar, and also some others. We had no small ado either to be off; the route lay over low, undulated hills, generally planted with corn, which numerous pigeons flew over, probably very anxious for it to ripen. We halted at noon on the banks of our old friend, who frisks away S.E. at every village almost.

They gave it a different name at the place we halted at; the man called it El Leban.

All now speak Turkish, so we are forced to hold our communication through two languages, both foreign to the speakers; how much of our meaning then reaches its destination! All the villages I have mentioned are built on Tels. Are these natural, or does man still fondly cling to the ruined home of his fathers? Crossing the Kirsan, two hours more brought us to Nezeb. Leaving, then, the village of Orrull, we crossed the river, and traversed a wide, undulating plain of lime. Here and there were plantations of figs, pistacios, and olives; while broad lands of wheat grew elsewhere.

To the S.E. was a range of mountains, probably those of the range said to run north of Hurassolis Banbyre to the Euphrates. In front, green trees and a tall minaret welcomed us on, and we found our tents pitched on a pretty green before the large village of Nezeb. This was the scene of the grand victory which laid all Asia Minor open to the conquering arms of Ibrahim Pasha. The Turks crossed the Euphrates at Birejek, and reached this, some 70,000 strong. Ibrahim, it is