300 DEPARTURE FROM ORFA. CHAPTER XIX. Leave Orfa for Haran-Tels and Barrows on the Way-Visit Tel Sultan -High Tower of Haran-Description of an Arab Tent-Its Furniture-Sheik Abdallah-Some Notice of his Tribe-Alarm of an Arab Attack-All Labour performed by Women-Dress of the Bedouins-Town of Haran-Its Ruins-Description of the TowerAnother Alarm of Arabs-Salt Stones, anciently used for building --Arab Indifference to Prayer-The Mosque-Filial Affection of an Arab-Christian Worship in the Desert-South Gate of HaranAccount of that Town by Pliny - Description of the Castle — Repose at a Well - Women come to draw Water - How they resembled what we read of Rebekah and Rachel - Departure from Haran. MAY 17th-Orfa to Haran, six hours' plain the whole way. We left Orfa early, and, passing through the gardens, which on this side skirt the town, struck due south across the plain. East and west of us, ranges of hills running north and south, shut in, leaving between a plain of some twenty miles in width, which, towards the south, was boundless. Leaving the garden walls, we emerged on the sea of land; nothing broke the horizon before us but a few tels. Now, since many have been found, which, on excavation, have TEL SULTAN. 301 produced ruins and antiquities pronounced as sites of ancient cities "Ambition sighed! She found it vain to trust The faithless column, and the crumbling dust; Huge moles, whose shadows stretch from shore to shore, So she invented tels, barrows, and such like.* These were very numerous; some large, some small; all, or nearly all, had names. On many still stand villages; others were covered with grass. Many parts of the plain were planted with corn; patches of it extended for miles. Other portions were left; and there the cattle of the Koords, who encamp here in great numbers, were pastured. The villages are peopled by Arabs, who, by circumstances, have been compelled to become sedentary, and thus forfeit their rank among their migratory brethren. The herds of cattle were enormous; young camels playing unwieldy tricks, and numerous storks quietly sauntering. The sheep and goats seemed much oppressed by the heat. We visited one of the principal tels, Tel Sultan : it is divided into two portions, and in one side has * See Jasher, x. 4. 5. 302 THE HIGH TOWER OF HARAN. a deep hole. Various curiosities are said to be washed out of it during the rains. In the hole I have mentioned, was a large squared block of stone, on the top of which, in the same piece, was a circular piece, exactly resembling the mill-stones at present in use, with a square hole cut into the There was also another block; and every part of the mound was covered with broken portions of common pottery. centre. And thus our road lay. Perhaps by this very route Abraham of old and those with him travelled; nor is it extravagance to say, the family we now meet may exhibit the exact appearance that the patriarchs did four thousand years ago,—the tents and pots piled on the camels; the young children in one saddle-bag balancing the kids in the other; the matron astride on the ass; the maid following modestly behind; the boys now here, now there; the patriarch himself on his useful mare, following and directing the march. As we pass, he lays his hand on his heart, and says, "Peace be with you; where are you going? Depart in peace." For many miles before we approached, we saw the high tower of Haran. At first, it appeared to float on water, and its hill seemed standing in a DESCRIPTION OF AN ARAB TENT. 303 Thus it As the lake, for the sun was intensely hot. looked quite near, and enormously large. sun grew more horizontal, it dwindled down to its proper dimensions, and showed its real distance. In the evening we arrived and pitched our tent just beyond a large Arab encampment of the tribe of Jahesh. The Arab tent is formed of cloth, black and coarse, formed of camel's hair. This is woven by the women in pieces about twenty inches wide, and of any length. These are roughly stitched together with strengthening patches. Wherever the poles press, rough cords are strapped to blocks of wood, and these are sown into the tent, the rope passing through it from the peg, and being secured. Many have not this, but the rope is sewn at once to the tent-cloth. A row of poles support the centre, running from end to end; these are placed perpendicularly; a row runs parallel on either side, each sloping outwards; these, put beneath, support the cloth, and the ropes, attached to strong stakes, keep it firm. The cloth then hangs down to within two or three feet of the ground all round, and a cloth curtain or a mat is hung to form a screen on the weather on the sunny side. At the centre is a division formed of mats running across. The one half is the lounge of all or any who choose to enter it. In the sheik's tent it is the guestroom, café, hotel, council-hall of the tribe; in others it is still open to all. Behind this is the cook-house; and, probably, where the favourite mare is hobbled, it is an open space. Behind this is another screen; and there is the women's apartment, screened all round. The furniture of the tent, as well as its size, &c., will vary; but generally it consists of a dromedary's saddle, handsomely bound and covered, a carpet, and several felts and sheepskins. There may be also a cushion and mattress, a few pots and pans, large vessels for milk, and other utensils for their simple cookery. An iron plate for cooking bread, would complete the rest of the kitchen traps; while his treasures, corn-store, &c., would probably form the bed in the harem. Sheik Abdallah, a very young, handsome fellow, received us most kindly. His people exhibited the greatest curiosity, which he begged we would excuse, on the score of their ignorance. sheik's manners were charming, and there was an air of softness and effeminacy about him little The |