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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Eastern Travel-Discomforts of Starting-The Train-Arrival at
Southampton-Embarkation on board the Steamer--Passengers
-Their reserve wears off-English Clergyman-Coast of Spain
-Trafalgar Bay-Gibraltar-Etna-Arrival at Malta Sight-
seeing at Malta-Diversified Population-Padre Ryllo-His hap-
less fate-Greece-Mitylene and Tenedos-Troy and Olympus
-Arrival at Constantinople-Early Impressions of that City
rectified-Departure for Smyrna
CHAPTER II.
Leave-taking on board the Smyrna Steamer-Captain-Dinner of
the Passengers-Carouse-French Packet in Distress-Touch at
Tenedos-Arrival at Smyrna-Population-Increase of Build
ings-Bazaars-Jewish Quarter-Bournabat-Caravan Bridge
-Baths of Diana-Burial Grounds-View from the Castle-
Turkish Quarter-Arch near the Amphitheatre-A Turkish
Beauty-Case of doubtful Justice-Statue of Polycarp-Brief
Notice of him -Alleged Miracle at his Death
CHAPTER III.
Departure from the Port-Passengers on board the Steamer-
Scenes on Deck-Arrival at Rhodes-General Appearance-
Where the Colossus probably stood-Tachtalu-Coast of Pam-
phylia-Anchor at Tarsus-Description of that place - The
Ansayrii-Their Religion-Alexandretta-Town-Harbour-
Pillar recording the Miracle of the Prophet Jonas-Kutchak
Ali, the Robber Chief-Murder of Sir Christopher Jones, and
by whom-The Issus-Darius and Alexander-Tancred, and
Godfrey of Boulogne-Beilan described-Tomb of Abderahman
Bey-Government of Ibrahim Pasha-Latakia, its ancient His-
tory-Wife of the British Consul-Aspect of the Town of
Latakia-Its Exports-Adjacent Country-Departure from
Latakia
ΡΔΟΣ
1
14
26
Beyrout-Description by Lamartine-Meeting with old Friends-
Beyrout, as it now is-Policy of the Pasha-Progress of the
Turks-Influence of European Consuls-European Ball given
to the Pasha-Ball given to the Turkish Ladies-Their Acknow-
ledgment of the Courtesy and its Effect-Second Tomb of
Jonas-Sidon-Old Friends there -Call of the Muezzin-
Prayers of the Mahomedans-Antiquities of Sidon-Its refusal
to admit Ibrahim Pasha-Lady Hester Stanhope and her Atten-
dant-Stud of the Emir Beshir .
PAGE
48
CHAPTER V.
Anxiety to reach Djouni-Antipater the Poet-The road to Djouni
-The Kiah and his Daughter-Late Residence of Lady Hester
Stanhope The Life of that Lady-Arab recollections of her-
General Lastanau and the Prophecies of Lady Hester-Her
eccentricity-Mischances on the Road-The great Hero of the
Christians-Palace of Beit ed Deen-The Country of the
Yezdeky-Ascent of Barouk-Plain of the Bekaa-Arrival at
Jeb Jenin-Dispute of the Geographers
63
CHAPTER VI.
Zea-Some Account of him-Prejudice of Jews against Dogs-Hills
around the Anti-Lebanon-Pharpar and Albana-The Keblah-
What are its Points-Mahomet and his Commentators-First
View of Damascus-Four Paradises of Persian Poets-Damas-
cus one of them-Arrival at Damascus-Certain social changes
in the City-Multitude of Dogs-Their Persecution - Take
Refuge in the Hotel de Palmyra
80
CHAPTER VII.
Description of Damascene Inns-The Leewan-Luxury of Foun-
tains-A Saunter about the Streets-Bazaars-Vendors and
their Goods-Varied Dresses and Appearance of those who
frequent the Bazaars-The Women-Distinctions of Dress in
Damascus The Term Hadgi-Mode of wearing the Hair-The
Beard-How the Beard was regarded by the Jews-Dresses of
the Women particularly described—Veils — Their Origin—
Dress of the Men described-Mosques-Christian Churches-
Mosque of the Dancing Dervishes-Probable Population of
Damascus, and of whom composed-The Castle
Origin of Damascus-Supposed to be the Site of Eden-The Word
Paradise-The Name Damascus-Sham-Ancient History of
Damascus-Gallantry of the Saracens Saladin-Tamerlane—
Mehemet Ali and the Damascenes-Hospitality of the Damas-
cenes-Impressive Legend-Legend of the Four Young Men-
Anecdotes of Ibrahim Pasha-His Treatment of the Arabs-
Songs in praise and in ridicule of Ibrahim-Hospital-Anti-
quities of Damascus - The so-called House of Ananias-
Window whence St. Paul escaped-Site of St. Stephen's Martyr-
dom-Houses of Damascus-The Caab-Purchase Horses-
Animals for Sale- The Auctioneer-Fanaticism of the Turks at
Damascus-Ancient Families there-Gardens-Prepare to bid
adieu to Damascus
110
CHAPTER IX.
Last Look at Damascus-Scenery on the Journey-Cultivation of
the Soil-Douna-Dead Camels-An irregular Soldier-Pay of
his Force-The Persian Shauzerdah and the English Ambassa-
dor, touching the relative Merits of British and Persian Soldiers
-Escort-Castal-Nepth-Jacobites-Houses of Nepth-Dis-
pense Medicines-Arrive at Karah-Opinion of England by the
Officers of the Escort-Interesting Ruins-Conversation with
the Villagers-Visits from the Sick-What they were pre-
scribed
. 133
CHAPTER X.
The Whirro-Sleight of hand of the Natives of Karah-Halt at a
large Khan-Description of it-Son of the Montselim-Firing
at a mark-Muskets of Damascus-Dine with the Montselim-
His Guests--Their Manners-The Bedawee and his Evolutions
-Mailed Bedawee Warriors-The Old Man and the Fire-
Beautiful Scenery-Hasiah-Populations of the Pashalics of
Aleppo and Damascus-The Euruque and Koords 144
CHAPTER XI.
Solitude-Enormous Burial-ground-Arrival at Homs-Host and
his Daughters-Lake of Kades-Mode of making Coffee-The
Greek Doctor and his Antiquities-The Christian and the Turk
compared Stupidity of the Homs People exemplified-Ancient
Tomb-Vast Cemetery-Town and Castle of Homs-I explore
the latter-Asmodean View-Cemetery of the Greeks-Greek
Church-Conduct of the Congregation-House of the Bishop-
Population of Homs-Visit the Bazaars-Prepare to start from
Homs with an Escort of Soldiers-Early History of Emessa-
Bassianus Heliogabalus-Zenobia and her Husband-Close of
the Career of Zenobia-Heraclius and the Moslems - The
Cousin of Kaled-Chivalry of Kaled, "the Sword of God"-
Food of the Homs People.
155
CHAPTER XII.
Departure from Homs-Tel Bissè- Description of that village -
Tel el Cartel and Djebel Mariam-Kubbes-Arrival at Hamath
-Our Reception-The Bazaars-Manufactures of Hamath-
The Orontes-How the Town is supplied with Water-The
Algerine Arab and his Stories-The provident Turk and his
silly Wife-Hamath to Khan Shokune-Scenery on the way--
Two Algerine Moors and Abd-el-Kader-Columns and Ruins-
Shokune to Marra-Corn-holes-Use they are put to--Beautiful
Ruins
CHAPTER XIII.
The present village of Marra-Its Appearance-Inhabitants--A
Turkish Answer-Crusaders and Saracens-Cruelties and Bar-
barities of Crusaders-Sacking of Marra under Bohemond-
Khan Sebel-Dishonesty of Turkish officials-Sermeim to
Aleppo-Approach to that City-Its Walls-Mode of Life and
Habits of Aleppenes-Bazaars and Streets of Aleppo-American
Missionaries there-Hungarians-General Bem-Gate of Fair
Prospect Strange Custom of the Ladies of Aleppo-Visit to
Mussulman Tombs-The Beautiful House of the Family of
Sada General Indolence at Aleppo-Turkish Servants—
Vaccination for the Aleppo Button-That Disease Described-
Curious Cure-The Slave and his Master.
-
CHAPTER XIV.
A Mussulman Funeral-Tomb of Abou Beker The Rich Husband
and the Unwilling Wife-Youthful Betrothals-Visit to the
Castle of Aleppo-The Building Described -View from its
Summit-Veneration of the Turks for Stamboul-Costume of
Turkish Men and Women-A Picnic in a Turkish Garden-
Ibrahim Pasha-His Policy-His Conscription-His enlightened
Treatment of Christians-Turkish Sweets-Of what composed
--Four Turkish Musicians-Their several Instruments-Final
Glance at Aleppo
. 179
.
. 195
214
Universality of Smoking in the East-Smoking in Persia-Story
of the Young Widower and the Holy Man-Substitute recom-
mended by the latter for a good Wife-When was Tobacco
introduced into the East? - Old Arabic MS. on Smoking-
Nimrod alleged to have been a Smoker-Mode of Smoking in
Ceylon-Antiquity of the use of Tobacco in China-Sale on an
alleged Prophecy by Mahomet that Tobacco would at some
future time be smoked in the East-Legend of Mahomet and
the Viper-Pipes used as Projectiles in War-Bhang and
Hashish-Sultan Mahomet IV. prohibits Smoking-The Sultan
and the Saphi-Modes of Smoking in the East-Tobacco used
-Water-pipe-Nargilleh-How made-Their occasional Rich-
ness and Beauty of Manufacture-Persian Pipes
CHAPTER XVI.
Departure from Aleppo-Halam-Muselmeicha-Meheritei to Ze
Maled―Dilatoriness of Eastern Travelling-Advice to Eastern
Travellers-A Spell to propitiate Relations to a Marriage-
Arrival at Aintab-Put under Quarantine-Quarters there-
Purveyor of Stores in the Quarantine-His mode of keeping
Accounts-Doctor Smith, the American Missionary-Diffi-
culties attending his Settling at Aintab-His persecution by
the Armenians-Progress of Protestantism in Aintab-The
Bishop His School-Castle--View from the Wall-Conversion
of the Armenians-Their better Treatment of Women-Depar-
ture from Aintab
230
246
CHAPTER XVII.
Naringa to Nezeb-Towns passed in our Way-Origin of Tels —
Great Victory of Ibrahim Pasha described-Nezeb-Pilgrims
from Bokhara First View of the Euphrates-Reflections sug-
gested by it-Ancient Passages of the Euphrates-Pass that
River-Town of Bir-Remains of its Castle-Spanish Monk-
Beautiful Scenery-Detention from the straying of the Baggage
Horses-A Pasha-His Courtesy and Kindness-Nobbagee, or
Musician-Charmelieh-Its curious Construction-Extraor-
dinary Well-Arab Mode of churning Butter-Arrive at the
ancient Ur of the Chaldees, now Orfa-Hospitality of the En-
glish Consular Agent-His Opinion of the Arab of the Desert. 263
CHAPTER XVIII.
Eastern Bath-How thoroughly to enjoy it-Visit the Pasha-
Incongruous Dresses of his Attendants — Arrangements for