these galleries was a kind of throne or bench covered with scarlet cloth, where the Dey sometimes sat.

"It was in this court that merchants were obliged to deposit the cargoes of their vessels, so that the Dey should be able to choose for himself the percentage in kind which was his due and custom. This primitive fashion of levying taxes caused the courtyard to be constantly heaped up with all manner of goods, so that it had the appearance of an old curiosity shop. In one of the galleries on the first story was a sort of pavilion in which the Dey would sit to hear music, and at the back of which were three or four little rooms, furnished apparently only with horse trappings. On the first story was a long gallery looking over the town, and from this a kind of ladder staircase led to the upper gallery, out of which opened four long chambers, whitewashed, and without either mirrors or hangings. These were the private apartments of the Dey.

"From the upper gallery a door incredibly low led to the women's quarter, which consisted of six small rooms, shut in by very high walls. "These apartments had no light except from an inner court, the soil of which was up to the level of the first floor.

"This melancholy abode, which suggested a vulture's eyrie rather than a lady's bower, was protected on the one side, by cannon which commanded the mountains in the direction of the Fort de l'Empereur, and on the other—that is to say on the side of the principal courtyard -by a very thick wall. This wall had been in one or two places slit diagonally, so as to form a sort of loop-hole, through which a glimpse of that portion of the upper gallery where the Dey was accustomed to sit might be caught by the captives, and a passing glance now and then obtained of the being who was, or was supposed to be, the sole subject of all their thoughts.

“In the neighbourhood of this gloomy and unsanctified cloister was an open space, or rather pit, dignified by the name of garden, which could only be reached by a pathway twisted into a kind of labyrinth, and by descending a flight of sixty to eighty steps. This garden, dug out between high walls of dazzling whiteness, was the only breathingplace permitted to the ladies."-Précis Historique de la Campagne d'Afrique.

From this description of the Dey's private apartments, it is to be imagined that the clocks and mirrors with which the Dey's rooms were chiefly furnished, had been removed before the entrance of the French troops into the citadel.

The interior of the Kasba can be visited on application. Enter the gate and ring a bell under a portico to the right. Permission to look over the citadel will at once be granted, and a soldier appointed as guide.

It is well worthy a visit, even under present circumstances. The old Mosque of the Dey, a large and handsome building, is now used as the artillery barracks, and the minaret which formerly adorned it has been pulled down. The hall of audience is a military store-room; the private apartments are used as kitchen and mess-room by the officers; but all are willingly shown to strangers, and are not only interesting from their historical associations, but rich in marbles and sculptured doorways.

The curious pavilion mentioned by Baron Denniée, and which was the scene of the momentous slap in the face given by Hussein Dey to the French consul, is still to be seen. It is lined with crimson and adorned with small mirrors, and has somewhat the appearance of an old family coach without wheels.

The view from the Dey's apartments, and, indeed, from any part of the Kasba, is very beautiful. The whole of Algiers down to the shore is spread out to the view, and the peculiar construction of the houses gives to this bird'seye prospect, a very much more pleasing effect than is usually obtained over a city. Here are no tiles and gaunt chimney-pots, no irregular blocks of dingy red and grey, nothing but a succession of gleaming white terraces, that descend like a broad flight of marble steps into the blue water of the bay, while beyond, the two jetties clasp the port like a pair of embracing arms.

The flat roofs give to Algiers a peculiarly Eastern appear

ance. They were, and are still to a certain extent, appropriated by the female portion of the inhabitants. Indeed, during the Dey's rule, it was forbidden, under pain of death, for any man to go on the terrace of even his own house during daylight. From this rule the consuls of the friendly nations were alone excepted.

"But out of courtesy they never availed themselves of this privilege, or at least not during the hour before sunset, when the Algerine belles take their evening promenade, and exhibit themselves and their jewels to their fair neighbours, until the instant when the evening prayer at the mosque ceases; then, their noisy leave-taking, and the clattering of their half slippers as they hurry down to welcome home their lords, may be heard from one end of the city to the other.

"These terraces are all surrounded by walls higher than people's heads. They are provided with one or two sets of portable steps or ladders, and offer no impediment to the neighbourly intercourse of ladies residing in the immediate vicinity of one another; nor is the division of a street of much more consequence in preventing their near approach, as there are, I should think, but very few spots in Algiers where even a child could not shake hands across the street from one house to another."-Six Years in Algiers, 1806—12. Mrs. Broughton.

The sanctuary of the roof is no longer inviolable, but it is still the resort of the Algerine women, and towards sunset, glimpses of pretty faces and gay costumes may yet be had, by those who wander up to the top of the old town. The Algerian women, moreover, are not, as a rule, careful to conceal their charms from the eyes of the European if Arabs are not present; whether the feeling that prompts them is a kindly consideration for the stranger's prejudices, a struggle towards liberty, or utter contempt, it is hard to say. Any way, a walk through the Arab quarter is strongly recommended towards the hour of sunset, when the rich afternoon lights are very beautiful, and the native population at their gayest.

ALGIERS BY MOONLIGHT,

213

But, above all, a visit should be paid to the old town in the evening-if possible by moonlight, when the effect of the whole is simply bewitching. Weird and ghostlike in its alternate gleam and gloom, in its utter stillness, it is like some shadow-city of enchantment, whose life has been lived out centuries ago, and is peopled only by pale shades clad in white and glistening garments, who glide mysteriously through the mazy defiles, and disappear suddenly in the black darkness.

CHAPTER XII.

THE MUSEUM.—THE HARBOUR.—THE FORTIFICA

J

TIONS. THE GATES.

"Cooped in their winged sea-girt citadel."

Byron..

UST beneath the flight of stone steps which lead from

the Place du Gouvernement to the Fish-market, is a modest-entry adorned with a somewhat high-sounding title. It is "L'Exposition permanente des produits de l'Algérie." It occupies a series of vaults beneath the Boulevard, and is open to the public on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays. This museum is, as it professes to be, a collection of all the products of Algeria, and though somewhat neglected, will be found well worthy of one, if not more visits. It is well arranged in its different departments, and conveys a good idea of the richness of the Algerine soil both as regards minerals and vegetable life, the variety of climates which may be found within the boundaries of the country, and the various possibilities open to enterprise and capital.

In the mineral collection will be found copper, iron, plumbago, lead, manganese, rock-salt, gypsum, slate, antimony, marbles of the most varied and beautiful shades, onyx, &c.

The vegetable kingdom offers specimens of magnificent cedar-wood, cork-oak-with which valuable tree it is said