and at last nearly closes, leaving only sufficient room for the passage of the water, which appears to have a communication with the distant mines of the Peak forest. The entire length of this wonderful cavern is seven hundred and fifty yards, and its depth two hundred and seven yards. It is wholly formed of limestone strata, which abound in marine exuviæ, and occasionally exhibit an intermixture of chert. Some communications with other fissures open from different parts of the cavern, but none of them are comparable to it in extent and appearance. In general, the access to the cavern is easy, but in very wet weather it can not be explored, as it is then nearly filled with water, which rises to a considerable height even at the entrance. In the inner part of the cavern a singular effect is produced by the explosion of a small quantity of gunpowder, when inserted in a crevice of the rock. The report seems to roll along the roof and sides, like a heavy and continuous peal of thunder. The scenery adjacent to the neighboring town of Buxton is also much celebrated. One of the most noted objects is "Elden's Hole," a perpendicular opening, down which a line has been dropped to the extent of two thousand six hundred and fiftytwo feet, without finding the bottom. "Poole's Hole" is a cave remarkable for its stalactites. A succession of beautiful valleys, situated amid rugged mountains, leads to the romantic one of "Matlock," where the banks of the Derwent are bordered by extensive woods, interspersed with the boldest and most varied forms of rock.

Of the varied scenery for which Derbyshire is so much celebrated, its numerous dales form the most beautiful and interesting portion. The first of the number, in size as well as beauty, is the far-famed and romantic Dove-dale, so called from the river Dove, which pours its waters through it. On entering this enchanting spot, the sudden change of scenery, from that of the surrounding country, is powerfully striking. The brown heath, or richly-cultivated meadow, is exchanged for rocks abrupt and vast, which rise on each side, their gray sides harmonized by mosses, lichens, and yew-trees, and their tops sprinkled with mountain-ash. The hills that enclose this narrow dell are very precipitous, and bear on their sides fragments of rock that, in the distance, look like the remains of ruined castles. After proceeding a little way, a deep and narrow valley appears, into the recesses of which the eye is prevented from penetrating, by the winding course it pursues, and by the shutting in of its precipices, which fold into each other and preclude all distant view. A further progress exhibits an increase of majesty and rudeness in the scene. The objects which, at a distance, appeared to have been ruins, are found to be rude pyramids of rock, and grand isolated masses, ornamented with ivy, rising in the middle of the vale. The rocks which enclose the dale, forcing their scattered and uncovered heads into the clouds, overhang the narrow path that winds through its dark recesses, and, frowning in craggy grandeur, and shaggy with the dark foliage that grows out of the chinks and clings to the asperities of the rocks, form a scene unrivalled in romantic effect. The mountain, which rises in the background of the view given on page 53, is known by the name of Thorp Cloud. On proceeding about a mile into the vale, fantastic forms and uncouth combinations are exhibited, in vast detached mural masses, while the sides of the dell are perforated by many small natural caverns which are difficult of access.

The length of Dove-dale is nearly three miles, and it is in no part more than a quarter of a mile wide, while in some places it almost closes, scarcely leaving room for the passage of its narrow river. On the right, or Derbyshire side of the dale, the rocks are more bare of vegetation than on the opposite, or Staffordshire side, where they are thickly covered with a fine hanging wood of various trees and odoriferous shrubs and plants. The frequent changes in the motion and appearance of the transparent Dove, which is interspersed with small islands and little waterfalls, contribute to diversify the scenery of this charming spot; while the rugged, dissimilar, and frequently grotesque and fanciful appearance of the rocks, gives to it that peculiar character by which it is distinguished from every other in the kingdom. The view on page 55 is of a very remarkable scene of this description, and can not fail to be immediately recognised by every one who has had the pleasure of visiting the spot.

The Dove has long been famous among anglers. Old Izaak Walton, his disciple Cotton, and Sir Humphrey Davy, have all celebrated it, not only for the sport it af forded them, but for its natural charms.

We can not dismiss a notice of this very interesting spot, without mentioning a peculiarly graceful custom which still lingers in its neighborhood-one of those poetical usages of the olden time which have almost departed from the country, and

the loss of which we would regret, did we not consider it a necessary result of that risen standard in the every-day enjoyments of the people, which, by affording many objects to interest the mind that did not formerly exist, and by diminishing the distance between the pleasures of ordinary and festival days, weakens the stimulus to their observance. The custom which gave occasion to this remark is thus described by Rhodes in his "Peak Scenery" :

"An ancient custom still prevails in the village of Tissington, to which, indeed, it appears to be confined, for I have not met with anything of a similar description in any other part of Derbyshire. It is denominated" Well-flowering," and holy Thursday is devoted to the rites and ceremonies of this elegant custom. This day is regarded as a festival, and all the wells in the place, five in number, are decorated with wreaths and garlands of newly-gathered flowers, disposed in various devices. Sometimes boards are used, which are cut for the figure intended to be represented, and covered with moist clay, into which the stems of the flowers are inserted to preserve their freshness; and they are so arranged as to form a beautiful mosaic work, often tasteful in design, and vivid in coloring. The boards thus adorned are so placed in the spring that the water appears to issue from among beds of flowers. On this occasion the villagers put on their best attire, and open their houses to their friends. There is a service at the church, where a sermon is preached; afterward a procession takes place, and the wells are visited in succession; the psalms for the day, the epistle, and the gospel, are read, one at each well, and the whole concludes with a hymn, which is sung by the church singers, accompanied by a band of music. After this the people separate, and the remainder of the day is spent in rural sports and holiday pastimes."

CHAPTER VI.

THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

IT has been said in praise of the island of Great Britain, that it contains within itself, on a small scale, specimens of all the beauties and variety of scenery of the whole of Europe. In a similar manner we may almost say that the Isle of Wight contains within a narrow compass all the most pleasing and picturesque features of Great Britain. No person with any eye or feeling for the beauties of nature, ever visited this fair isle without delight; and we trust we shall render no unacceptable service by drawing our readers' attention to it.

Though the largest island in the British channel, the Isle of Wight is only twentyfour miles in its greatest length, that is, from east to west, or from the Needles io Foreland farm, and about twelve in its greatest breadth, or from Cowes castle to Rocken End. Its form is that of an irregular ellipsis, and it has been compared to the shape of a turbot. It contracts at its two extremities, and is very narrow toward the west. The entire circumference is generally set down at about sixty miles, and the island contains from 120,000 to 130,000 acres of land, of which a great portion is very productive.

The natural division of the island is very clearly marked; a centrical chain of hills and downs cuts it into two nearly equal parts, the one being north and the other south. The southern part, which is farther from the Hampshire coast, and much the more picturesque, bold, and secluded of the two, is commonly called the "back of the island."

A very favorable character has been generally given of the islanders. M. Simond, in the course of his tour at the back of the island, says: "The meanest of their cottages, and those inhabited by the poorer class, were adorned with roses, jessamines, and honeysuckles, and often large myrtles, which, on this southern coast, bear the winter out of doors. There were vines everywhere against their houses, and often fig-trees. We thought the women remarkably good-looking. Children and grown people took off their hats, or gave us a nod, as we passed along."

The most striking and distinctive features of the Isle of Wight exist on its coasts, which present a continual succession of natural phenomena, and grand or beautiful scenery. We will attempt to describe a few of the scenes to be met with in its brief circumnavigation.

We will begin with the picturesque maritime town of Cowes, where we landed when we visited the island, and thence proceed along the western coasts to the Needles and the back of the island. This pretty town, surrounded by gentlemen's seats and elegant cottages, is situated at the mouth of the Medina, standing partly on the eastern and partly on the western bank of that river. A port and roadstead, generally crowded with shipping, offer animated seaward views; and on the land side there is a variety of beautiful walks through an undulating country, where trees are everywhere mixed with the habitations of men. Old Cowes castle is a small fortress on the seashore, offering no very picturesque features, but East Cowes castle, and Norris castle, in the neighborhood, though both modern Gothic structures, are fine objects in the scenery, and beautifully situated.

On leaving West Cowes, we sailed under the pleasant West cliff, and doubling a little promontory, came into Gurnard's bay, where a small stream, called the Rue, falls into the Solent channel. Thence, crossing Thorness bay, we reached Newtown, which is curiously situated on a deep and irregular inlet or creek of the Solent, which admits vessels of considerable burden. Though formerly a markettown of some consequence, and though, until very recently, it sent two members to parliament, Newtown is but a small village, with fourteen or fifteen cottages, and a population of about seventy persons. The only trade it now has, is derived from some salterus, or saltpans. In the rear of the village are the picturesque remains of an old church, which are almost entirely concealed by luxuriant ivy. From Newtown bay we sailed slowly along the coast to the estuary of the river Yar, on the eastern bank of which stands the town of Yarmouth. During this short voyage from Cowes, the tourist catches fine glimpses of the interior scenery of the island, backed by hills and downs; but the coast itself, though prettily sprinkled with small hamlets and fishermen's huts, and covered in many places with green grass, or trees, to the water's edge, yet offers none of those features of sublimity which occur a little beyond Yarmouth. This town, the most important on the western end of the island, is very advantageously situated, and has a constant intercourse, by means of steamboats and sailing-vessels, with Lymington on the main, from which it is distant no more than four miles: its port or roadstead is excellent. The population of Yarmouth, however, is but small, not much exceeding 600 persons. The river Yar, which has a fine appearance at high water, rises close to Fresh water gate, on the opposite side of the island, and within a few yards of the sea, which, in stormy weather, has been seen to break over the narrow ridge of separation, and mingle its salt waves with the fresh waters of the river-head. The Yar almost insulates the western extremity of the island from the rest of the Wight; and, were it desirable, the ocean could be easily made to flow through its bed, from the south to the Solvent strait at the north. To this end, nothing would be required but to cut through the very narrow isthmus at Freshwater gate. The river Yar is navigable up to Freshwater mills, and affords a pleasant aquatic excursion.

On leaving Yarmouth, we almost immediately reached Sconce Point, where Hurst castle, standing at the end of a projection from the Hampshire coast, presents itself in a picturesque manner, and apparently almost within reach. At the turning of Sconce Point into Colwell bay, the peculiarities of the coast begin to appear. The cliffs become lofty and vertical, exposing their different strata, the lowest of which is of white sand, and more than thirty feet thick. This continues along Totland bay to the grand eminence of Headon hill, which rises 400 feet above the level of the sea, which is here remarkably clear, with a fine rocky bottom. On turning this point, the voyager finds himself in a remarkable bay, at the southern side of which the Needles show their fantastic shapes, their rugged, narrow ridges, in summertime, being generally covered with sea-fowl.

Alum bay, a section of which is correctly represented in our engraving, presents, indeed, one of the most striking scenes on this curious coast. On one side it is bounded by lofty precipices of chalk, of a pearly color, broken and indented; on the other by cliffs, strangely but beautifully variegated with different colors, arising from the strata of red and yellow ochres, fuller's earth, black flints, and sands, both gray and snowy white. The white sand is valuable for the manufacture of glass