in the pointed Gothic style, for the most part in very good taste; the organ is a remarkably fine one, and the choir excellent. The roads, in all directions, are admirable; and in the laying out of the new ones, they are carried round instead of over the hills. There is water-carriage from both Belfast and Newry by lake and canal, to within four miles of the city; the streets have flagged footways, and are well lighted with gas. About forty years since, the population was only one thousand. It now amounts to thirteen thousand. The archbishop of Armagh, primate of all Ireland, resides close to the town, as do also a large number of clergymen attached to the cathedral, as well as many respectable gentry. Near Armagh stands the observatory, built and endowed by Primate Robinson, whose munificence greatly contributed to the advance of science and improvement of the whole diocese. This noble institution is at present conducted by the Rev. Dr. Robinson, professor of astronomy.

CHAPTER LIII.

CONNAUGHT.

CONNAUGHT, the smallest of the four provinces, contains but five counties, those of Leitrim, Roscommon, Mayo, Sligo, and Galway. There are in this province large tracts of mountainous and sterile land, especially in the western parts of the counties of Galway and Mayo. The peninsula formed by the western part of the first of these counties is named Connemara, and is famed for its scenery, which somewhat resem bles that of Argyllshire. It may be described as a vast tract of mingled bog, lake, rocky moorland, and mountain, bounded and partially penetrated by deep inlets of the sea, resembling the fiords of Norway. The principal lake is Lough Corrib, which is twenty miles long, full of islands, and surrounded by an extensive rocky desert, bearing no small resemblance to those of Arabia. Between this lake and the western extremity of Connemara, there is a range of tall, swelling, green hills, called the Twelve Pins of Bunabola, and to the north of these is an estuary famed for its wild scenery, named the Killery, many miles in length, and connected with the Atlantic by a passage only thirty feet wide. Connemara contains a small, scattered, and primitive population, unusually full of superstitious and old feudal feelings. Besides Clifden, a modern fishing-village on the west coast, there is scarcely any such seat of population in the district. There are, however, a few homely inns for the accommodation of the numerous tourists who flock thither in summer.

From the high grounds near Westport, is obtained a view of Clew bay, a magnificent sheet of almost enclosed water, full of islands, and bounded by lofty mountains, among which the most conspicuous are Croagh Patrick and Nephin. The islands of Clare and Achill bound the scene toward the west. In some states of the weather, and particularly when a summer sun is calmly descending on Clare, the view of Clew bay is one of extraordinary beauty. The islands are said by the common people to be as numerous as the days in a year, but in reality are only about a hundred. Croagh Patrick is regarded with superstitious feelings by the peasantry, as the spot where their tutelary saint was accustomed to preach.

Amid the great tracts of wild ground in Connaught, there are a few other spots of an unusually attractive character. The scenery round Lough Allen, out of which the Shannon flows, is extremely pretty, as is also that near Boyle, at the foot of the Curlew mountains. At Lough Gill, near Sligo, a lake bearing a strong resemblance to the upper lake of Killarney, and the little bay of Ardnaglass, into which falls the cataract of Ballysedare, are scenes of peculiar beauty. Much of the surface of Galway is flat, showing, for twenty miles together, a succession of narrow limestone rocks, like parapet walls of three feet high, placed in parallels to each other, at distances of from three to ten feet: the intermediate spaces, though apparently but a waste of rock and stone, supply the finest sheep pasture in the kingdom.

The great central limestone district of Ireland occupies the southern portion of this province, which, to the eye, forms an exception to the general character of limestone

countries, appearing so exceedingly barren, that, in passing over tracts of Galway and Mayo, the traveller almost doubts whether he is not journeying over a great cemetery covered with tombstones, rather than over places where the sheep could find pasture or the peasant plant potatoes. There are, however, some exceptions to this prevailing sterility, for nowhere are finer sheepwalks found than in some parts even of the southern counties of Connaught. The tillage of this province is principally confined to oats and potatoes, as best suited to the shallow mountain bog-soil, which so largely prevails in the western baronies. The extreme moisture of the climate is so inimical to the growth of wheat, that, except in a few parts of Galway, Connaught can not be said to grow its own bread corn. There is a great export of oats and potatoes from the ports of Galway, Westport, and Sligo. With regard to husbandry, though it certainly is improving, it is yet much inferior to that of the other provinces. The landholders pride themselves on the breed of long-woolled sheep, their great source of wealth; and the celebrated fair of Ballinasloe, where from eighty thousand to one hundred thousand are usually sold, year after year exhibits an improvement in this branch of rural economy. Horned cattle, and horses, especially hunters, are also bred extensively in Galway. What has been said of Munster applies in a still more aggravated degree to Connaught. The property of an absentee landlord is usually divided into portions ruinously small; and if the proprietors do not quickly interfere, deplorable consequences must result from the subdivision system. The grazing farms are let in large portions, which it is the policy of the farmer not to diminish. Rents vary from one pound to one pound ten shillings an acre, except in the vicinity of towns, where they rise to two and three pounds; and wages are from tenpence to one shilling a-day in summer, and from eightpence to tenpence in winter.

There have been many attempts to introduce the linen manufacture into Connaught, and markets for its sale were established in Sligo, Castlebar, Westport, and Galway; but though it thrives to an extent sufficient to supply the rural population, there is reason to believe that little if any linen is exported from the province. There is, from the ports above-mentioned, a pretty large export of oats, whiskey, and potatoes.

The peasantry in Connaught are as poor as poverty can be without amounting to destitution; and, except in the mountain districts, their situation is daily becoming worse-so much so, that poverty, in times of scarcity, which on an average occur about once in seven years, increases to destitution, and appeals to the richer members of the empire to save the laboring classes from actual starvation, become unavoidable. The food of those who are the best off is generally dry potatoes, with occasionally a herring or an egg. In Connaught, the indigent peasant is reduced to a state of greater poverty, by grasping at the temporary relief afforded by the system called by the Irish name of gambeen (exchange), of which the principle is to furnish provisions to the poor, allowing time for payment, but generally charging an exorbitant interest. This system has led to the most deplorable results.

There is a good salmon-fishery near the town of Galway, and one for cod, haak, and haddock, which, from the poverty of those engaged in it, which prevents them from providing sufficient tackling for their boats, is less productive than it might be. In some years the sun-fish, or basking-shark, are abundant off the shores of Galway, and much excellent oil is produced; but this fish is so capricious, that the fishery can not be looked to with any certainty. The salmon of Ballinahinch are regularly sealed up in tin cases by the gentleman who farms this fishery from Mr. Martin, the principal proprietor of the country. There is a very productive salmon-fishery below the thriving town of Ballina, on the river Moy, from which large quantities of salmon are sent to the London market.

Galway, reckoned the capital of the west, and in point of population the fifth town in the kingdom, is situated in a valley lying between the bay which bears its name and Lough Corrib. The town is of considerable antiquity, and consists of streets and lanes huddled together, without any regard to comfort or convenience. The whole partakes of the appearance of a Spanish town, the result probably of its early intercourse with Spain; and a small open space near the quay retains the name of Spanish parade. The principal ecclesiastical buildings are the parish church of St. Nicholas, founded in 1320, a presbyterian meetinghouse, and the Roman catholic chapel. The Franciscans, Augustines, and Dominicans, have monasteries here. The chief public buildings are, the county courthouse, a hand

some cut-stone edifice, erected in 1815, with a portico of four Doric columns; and the Tholsel, built during the civil wars of 1641. The schools in Galway are mostly under the superintendence of the Roman catholic religious orders. There is also one on the foundation of Erasmus Smith, one belonging to the National Board, and about sixteen parish schools. Galway possesses a house of industry, an asylum for widows and orphans, a protestant poorhouse, and a Magdalen asylum, which is supported by two benevolent Roman catholic ladies.

The chief manufacture of Galway is flour. There are a bleach-mill and green on one of the islands, an extensive paper-mill, and several breweries and distilleries in the town. The exports consist principally of grain, kelp, marble, wool, and provisions; the imports of timber, wine, coal, salt, hemp, tallow, and iron. In 1835, the vessels entered inward numbered one hundred and thirty-five, of an aggregate burden of twelve thousand nine hundred and fifteen tons; while the vessels cleared outward amounted to one hundred and forty-five, with a tonnage of fifteen thousand five hundred and thirty-one. In 1840, a splendid dock was opened, from which great expectations are formed of the increase of trade. A steamer in this bay is highly necessary, for towing out vessels in adverse winds. In 1831, the population of Galway was thirty-three thousand one hundred and twenty.

Across the country in a northern direction, and also situated at the head of a bay bearing its name, stands Sligo, a town of a much smaller population than Galway, but more important as respects its commerce. It has carried on for several years a considerable trade, both export and import, and is still increasing, notwithstanding the bad state of its harbor. The exports are wholly limited to agricultural produce. The retail trade is extensive, articles of every description in demand being supplied to a large and populous district. The streets in the older part of the town are nar row, dirty, and ill-paved, and badly suited to the bustle of an export trade. But convenient markets have been erected, and the extension of the town by regularly. built wide streets, is expected to remedy the inconvenience and irregularity of the older parts. Some good public buildings embellish the prominent points in and about the town, and the river Garwogue, which bears the surplus waters of Lough Gill to the bay, and turns several large flour-mills in its course, is a fine feature in the scene.

15,152.

The suburbs are beautiful and picturesque. In 1831, the population was