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than convenient. Nothing can be imagined more unnatural, and consequently less agreeable. When a slender Virgin stands upon a basis so exorbitantly wide, she resembles a funnel, a figure of no great elegancy; and I have seen many fine ladies of a low stature, who, when they sail in their hoops about an apartment, look like children in Go-carts.”
The revolution of the wheel of fashion, I repeat, may again bring up the lofty head-dress of the year 1777, when, if any reliance is to be placed on the engravings of the day, the friseur was obliged to ascend a pair of steps to place in order the aspiring toupee. Have I not cause of apprehension, that these (to be deplored) events may again arise, when I reflect, that the present fashions of the bishop, and the gigot, sleeve, are but the revival of those in the times of our seventh Henry? And here, gentle reader, I cannot but remonstrate “ryghte humblie wythe the Ladyes faire " on the behalf, not of myself, believe me, but of my fellow-men :
“ Oft it has been my lot to mark
A proud conceited talking spark,"*
seated “ atween two Ladyes faire,” at the table of hospitality, and attired in snow-white vests, or in the bishop, or in the gigot, sleeve. I have seen him with arms close pinioned to his sides. I have seen him writhing in his happy-yet unhappy_situation, using every endeavour. to. make himself-small; trembling, lest; by dis
composing the sleeve-or of his right hand-or of his left hand, neighbour, he should receive the-gentle rebuke of “Jadye faire.” Is it not fervently to be hoped, that these cumbrous fashions, which add nought to the charms of the wearer, will make their disappearancenever to return? In thus venturing to make this “ryghte humble” remonstrance, I speak, as I believe, the sentiments, in sober seriousness, of the male part of the creation.
The venerable, and grave, Camden, tells this humorous tale of the disposition, even in his days, of the lower class to follow their superiors in the reigning fashions: “I will tell you,
" says he,“ how Sir Philip Calthrop purged John Drakes the Shoemaker of Norwich in the time of King Henry the 8. of the proud humour which our people have to be of the Gentlemens cut: This knight bought on a time as much fine French tawney Cloath as should make him a gowne, and sent it to the Taylours to be made. John Drakes a shoemaker of that towne, comminge to the said Taylours, and seeing the Knights gowne cloath lying there, liking it well, caused the Taylour to buy him as much of the same cloath, and price to the same intent, and further bad him to make it of the same fashion, that the Knight would have his made of. Not long after the Knight comming to the Taylours, to take measure of his gowne, perceiveth the like gowne cloath lying there, asked of the Taylour, whose it was. Quoth the Taylour, it is John Drakes, who will have it made of the self same fashion that yours is made of; well
said the Knight in good time be it. I will (said he) have mine made as full of cuts as thy sheeres can make it: it shall be done said the Taylour, whereupon because the time drew neere, he made haste of both their garments. John Drakes when he had no time to goe to the Taylours till Christmas-day, for serving of customers, when hee had hoped to have worne his gowne, perceiving the same to be full of cuts began to sweare with the Taylour for the making of his gowne after that sorte. I have done nothing (quoth the Taylour) but that you bad me, for as Sir Philip Calthrops is, even so have I made yours. By my latchet quoth John Drakes I will never weare Gentlemans fashion againe.”
The point of this well-told tale is so admirable, that any attempt to sharpen it would only weaken its effect. Let us, then, pass on to the
Dress of John Halle,
Whose portrait I have already presented to you, p. 89; and for the purpose of a more satisfactory elucidation of that dress, I take leave, gentle reader, in this place to introduce to your notice a re-engraving of an ancient painting, which was on the wall of the Hungerford Chapel, now, alas !-no more!
The chapel alluded to was on the north side of the chancel of Salisbury Cathedral, and was taken down at the same time with another on the south side, erected by Bishop Beauchamp; this was done, when some extensive alterations,