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Decline of the fashion of the long-toed shoe, and the adoption of the contrary ex-

treme-Proclamation of Queen Mary, that shoes should not be more than six

inches broad at the toes-Ladies' shoes in the reign of Elizabeth of very varied

fashion-Cork shoes-Quotation from the play of "Willy Beguiled"-Puisnets

and pantofles, what kind of shoes-The high-heeled shoe introduced in the reign

of Charles, the First, the last important change-"Clouted Shoon”—Quotation

from Shakspeare-Clouted shoe in the Ashmolean Museum-Extract of a letter

from Tom Hearne to Browne Willis-Fastenings of the shoe-The shoe-latchet

made the subject of valueless comparison-Mode of fastening the shoe probably

made use of by the Saxons and Normans-Fastening used during the middle

ages, involved in much obscurity-The high shoe, or half-boot-Different opin-

ions of Howe and Planche as to the date of the introduction of shoe buckles--These

mentioned in the statute of Richard, the Third, which is restrictive of importa-

tion—The full buckle certainly in vogue in the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth—

Fashion of the rose on the shoe-Thus worn by Prince Henry, the son of James,

the First-The fashion continued in the reign of Charles, the First-Family

portrait, by Vandyke, at Wilton-Change during the Commonwealth of the

rose into the simple bow-Revival of the buckle in the reign of William, the

Third-Continuation of the fashion till almost the present times-Proverb con-

nected with the shoe-Circumstances, which gave rise to it, as related by Pliny

-English Version of the same-Sirnames of Scheemaker, and Shoemaker-

Henry's "History of Briton" quoted-Account of Crispin, and Crispianus, the

patron Saints of the shoemakers, extracted from Brady-Company of Cord-

wainers-Their arms and hall-The throw of the old shoe an omen of good

luck-Conclusion of the Essay on the dress of John Halle, and on the progress

of fashion
- p. 272-286

JOHN HALLE of great local importance in his day, but not a leading man in the
affairs of the state-From this, and other causes, not much known of his life-

Quotation from a former Essay, stating the probability, that John Halle was the

son of Thomas Halle, a member of the corporate body of Salisbury-Birth-

place, and prior residence of John Halle unknown-Date of the purchase of the

premises, whereon he erected his halle-Appointed one of the collectors of a

subsidy for the Crown for New-street Ward, 1446-and the Constable for the

same Ward, 1449-Reasons for belief, that John Halle married one of his own

kindred-Nothing known of him in his domestic character, but presumption in

his favour-His issue a son and daughter—their marriages and issue-Reasons for

supposing, that John Halle must have been advanced in years, when he erected

his splendid halle-Extract from the opening passage of the work-Aubrey,

probably, acquainted with more of the history of John Halle than is known at

present-The oblivion of Crabb's "Prophecie" an illustration of this pro-

bability-Mr. John Bayly-Quotation from Aubrey-Supposed fulfilment of

Crabb's "Prophecie"-Epitaph of "John Baylye" and Katherine, his wife-

Salisbury, &c., in the middle ages, the seat of an extensive cloth manufacture-

From that, and other causes, Salisbury became a celebrated mart for wool-John

Halle an eminent merchant of the staple-The woolstapler of modern days of

far inferior importance-John Halle a fair, and open dealer in wool-Scene in

the Wool Market of Salisbury-Hyperbolical language of Aubrey with respect

to Halle and Webb-No reason to presume, that those eminent merchants

were partners-The non-existence of wool-sacks in the windows of the halle in

accordance with the query of Aubrey accounted for

John Halle, in the year 1444, contributed towards a general subsidy to the King-
Causes, which rendered this subsidy necessary-War with France-Wily policy
of the Earl of Suffolk-Marriage of Henry, the Sixth-John Halle elected, in
1446, one of the Common Council of the City of Salisbury-And, in 1448, one of
the Aldermen-In the year 1449 he again contributed towards a subsidy to the
King-In 1451 elected Mayor for the first time-In 1453 chosen as a Burgess
to serve in Parliament-The consequent expenses of John Halle, and of his
fellow Burgess, directed by royal mandate to be paid by the City-Wages
usually allowed to Knights and Burgesses in the middle ages-The receipt of
wages by members of the Legislature in those early times no dishonour-These
monied payments sometimes dispensed with, and sometimes commuted-Curious
compact between John Strange and his electors-Andrew Marvell, M. P. for
Hull, the last who received wages-In 1457 John Halle elected Mayor for the
second time-Fines affixed in 1458 on those members of the Corporation, who
might use violent language at the Councils-Heavier penalty attached to John
Halle-His character vindicated by the Author-In the same year, 1458, ap-
pointed an Alderman of St. Martin's Ward-Elected Burgess for the City the
second time in 1460-Contest between the Houses of York and Lancaster-Battle
of Northampton, and circumstances which give rise to the new parliament-
Important debate, which took place--Extract from Stow-Independent,
but imprudent conduct of the Duke of York-His death-The crown assured
to Henry, the Sixth, for life-Varying contest between the Houses of York and
Lancaster-Deposition of Henry, the Sixth, and accession of Edward, the
Fourth-Measures of the new Monarch-A fresh parliament summoned-

e

In 1464 John Halle elected Mayor of Salisbury for the third time-Important

disputes now arise between the City and Bishop Beauchamp-Circumstances,

which render the citizens desirous to throw off the episcopal yoke-Their

oft endeavours so to do-Appeal to the King in the time of Bishop de

Gandavo Their partial success-Injurious result in consequence-The royal

decree revoked on the petition of the Citizens--The yoke still fretted-

Occasion of dispute now seized on by them as to the right to a piece of

ground near St. Thomas's Church--Respective claims of William Swayne,

the Corporation, the Dean and Chapter, and the Bishop-Former disputes

again alluded to-References to the "Historical and Descriptive Account

of Old and New Sarum, or Salisbury," by Mr. Hatcher, and to the " Antiqui-

tates Sarisburienses" of Dr. Ledwych as to the disputes of 1395-Opinion of

the latter, that they arose from the attempts of Bishop Waltham to suppress the

progress of the doctrines of Wickliffe-Supposition of the Author, that the

maintenance of manorial rights was an assistant cause-Severe recognizances

required of the Mayor and Citizens of Salisbury-The subsequent murder of

Bishop Ayscough-The dispute between the City and Bishop Beauchamp re-

ferred to Edward, the Fourth, and his Privy Council-Beauchamp well able to

support his episcopal rights, as he was a man of business, powerfully allied, and

a great favourite with his Sovereign-John Halle unequally matched against

him-The claims of the other parties yielded to those of the Corporation, and

the Bishop-Circumstances which arose from this dispute-Partiality of Ed-

ward, the Fourth, to sitting in Courts of Justice-Instances adduced in proof of

this
p. 313-322

John Halle, as Mayor of Salisbury, appears before the King and Council, with a
deputation of his fellow-citizens-Biassed feelings, under which John Halle pre-
sents himself His intrepid conduct-Apology for John Halle-The language of
the bluff, and honest, John Halle, offensive to the Crown-Letter in consequence
to the "Citizens and Co'mons of the Cete of Newe Salisbury"-John Halle com-
mitted to prison, and the Citizens directed to elect "an nother mayre" in his
stead-Character of John Halle defended from unjust imputations-Distressing
situation of his wife and family-Dismay, and lethargic stupor, which seized
the Citizens-The Citizens aroused by another letter from the King-They are
required," in all possible haste," to elect another Mayor, or that 12 or 8 "atte
the leste" should attend before the Council to show cause for disobedience-
Delay in the arrival of the letter-Convocation held on the Sabbath-day-
Minute (in modern language) of the Convocation, as it appears in the City
Leger-Resolution of the Corporate Body, and an humble Address forwarded

to the King-Effect of this Address on the Monarch-Another letter in conse-
quence from him to the Citizens, postponing the attendance of the deputation,
and reducing the number to 4 or 6-Character of Edward, the Fourth-The feel-
ings, by which he was, probably, actuated towards John Halle

p. 322-332

John Halle properly elected Mayor by the Citizens for the fourth time-In the

following year he presides as Mayor at an assembly held on the 25th of July,

being the Feast of St. James, the Great-Patriotic conduct of John Halle in

1470-Adroit manœuvres and ambition of Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick

and Salisbury-Warwick marries his eldest daughter to the Duke of Clarence,

the brother of his King-He alienates the affections of the Duke from his Royal

Brother, Edward, the Fourth-His object to depose the reigning Sovereign, and

to place the Duke on the throne-The mind of Warwick receives a fresh bias,

and it becomes his project to restore Edward, the Fourth-Clarence and War-

wick land at Dartmonth on the 13th Sept., 1470-They send a special messen-

ger to the City of Salisbury, and require a quota of 40 armed men—The arrival

of a counter-messenger from Edward, the Fourth-The perplexity of the Citi-

zens, who adopt a middle course, and offer 40 marks in lieu of 40 men-Refusal

of this offer, and danger impending over the City-John Halle, at the hazard

of his life and fortune, relieves the City from her distress-Slanders raised

against John Halle-He indignantly repels them-Montague's defection from

the Sovereign, who betakes himself to the Continent-Henry, the Sixth, re-

leased from imprisonment, and proclaimed in London-Edward re-lands at

Ravenspur on the 14th of March, 1471-Defection of the Duke of Clarence

from the interests of Warwick-Edward enters London-Henry, the Sixth,

again deposed-Battle of Barnet, and death of Warwick
p. 344-353

Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry, the Sixth, returns to England, landing at

Weymouth-She takes sanctuary at Beaulieu-She resolves to try the fate of war

-John Halle, as deputy in the absence of the Mayor, receives orders to provide

a quota of 40 men-Battle of Tewkesbury, and defeat of the Queen and her army

-The City of Salisbury, in consequence, released from the necessity of attending to

the aforesaid requisition-Edward, the Fourth, firmly re-seated on the Throne-

Reflections as to the conduct of Edward, the Fourth, towards John Halle-

Suppositions of the Author, that Edward, the Fourth, satiated with blood,

fearful of offending the powerful body of merchants, and entertaining personal

respect for John Halle, suffered him to live-John Halle, subsequently passed,

as is supposed, a quiet, and retired life-Lamented death of John Halle on the

18th of October, 1479-Character of John Halle well proved from the facts,

that he was elected three times as Burgess, and four times as Mayor of "the

ancient and respectable City of Salisbury "-The deprecation of the Author

against the disparagement of the character, or the conduct of John Halle-His

Will not to be found, and the consequent presumption, that he died intestate-

The nature, and intent, of legal "Inquisitiones post mortem explained by a

quotation from the "History of the Hundred of Chalke," by Charles Bowles,

Esq.-The (translated) Inquisitiones post mortem of John Halle-Various

properties of John Halle in the Counties of Wilts and Hants, as taken by the

Inquests of the King's Escheator--Conclusion of the Memorials of John

Halle

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