12

MISSERI'S HOTEL AT PERA.

Anastasius, Constantinople in all its grandeur rose before us. Alas in the concluding words of his apostrophe, he owns it was an illusion—our visions were dispelled. Snow, thick and deep, enveloped the town; cupola, dome, and cypress were burdened with icicles above was an angry and a wintry sky, while the wind was keenly piercing; and it was with no regret we returned below to breakfast. A boat carried us afterwards to a wet, dirty yard, where amidst noise and confusion, porters carrying charcoal, others unshipping lime, our luggage was left till it suited the convenience of the officers to examine it, who full well knew that a message from the British Consul would be sent, and they would be compelled to let it through at once.

All one's attention was necessary on the way to the hotel; for the streets were knee-deep in snow and mud, and more fell in showers from the eaves of the houses. Misseri's Hotel, in Pera, is about a mile from the water side, up the hill of Galata, steep always, and now, from ice, rain, and mud, nearly impracticable. However, we plunged down the hole his house is in with joy, and forgot our cares, in the comforts of his hotel. For three

FROLIC OF ENGLISH YOUTH.

13

days we were blockaded by the weather; snow fell constantly, and the English fires and English coals were the best things I saw. Once, with desperate energy, I mounted the tower of Galata ; but the view was only a greater extent of snow, and I pitied the ancient Genoese watcher whose ward fell in winter.

Again in a sedan to the Embassy, a huge penitentiary style of building: on my way home at night, somebody-an English youth or youthsjoined the hinder bearer, raced with the sedan down a steep street, and finally overturned it in a snow-drift. Their laugh, as I emerged from the cold mass, reminded me of my old misdeeds; so the hotel received me in a subdued philosophic mood, but very wet. It was most assuredly useless as far as seeing anything else but snow, to remain ; we therefore embarked on board an Austrian Lloyds steamer, bound for Smyrna.

14

THE SMYRNA STEAMER.

CHAPTER II.

Leave-taking on board the Smyrna Steamer-Captain-Dinner of the Passengers--Carouse--French Packet in Distress-Touch at Tenedos ---Arrival at Smyrna-Population-Increase of Buildings -Bazaars Jewish Quarter-Bournabat- Caravan Bridge-Baths of Diana-Burial Grounds-View from the Castle-Turkish Quarter-Arch near the Amphitheatre-A Turkish BeautyCase of doubtful Justice Statue of Polycarp-Brief Notice of him-Alleged Miracle at his Death.

As we mounted the side of the steamer the crew were shovelling the deep drift off the deck, so we rushed below, where fifty Greek friends were bidding adieu to a dozen or more Greek passengers. Wine,-light in summer, vinegar now, was drunk to friendship; all smoked, and every egress for the smoke being shut, the smell and noise drove us on deck, till the snow and cold again drove us below. Here our fellows were maudlin and kissing; more wine; more vapid cigarets. The agent of the vessel was signing more paper than an English firm would use in months. Why is it that foreigners use so much paper in all business transactions? At last there was quiet:

DINNER IN THE CABIN.

15

the friends kissed, knocked glasses, kissed and

departed.

We were at war with the captain at once; for on asking for the stove, he said it had been forgotten; so we grumbled at everything. At four a start was pronounced impossible: this we said was ridiculous, as the day was clear though the snow fell fast: the battle of words continued till dinner was ready. Let me record this meal, which resembled all others on board the same vessel; but not (I trust for the comfort of travellers,) to be found elsewhere. Fancy a narrow, long cabin, the bulkheads beautifully varnished, the sofas, &c. perfect; the skylights and all other air-holes carefully closed; the whole atmosphere redolent of bad tobacco smoke. Fifteen persons were seated at a table sufficient for eight. These consisted of eleven Greeks of the Fanar and Smyrna, (who used their forks like harpoons, grasping them with the whole hand, low down, and their knives as forks-save when they likewise performed the duty of salt-spoons,) two officers, and ourselves. On the table were two plates of unripe oranges; two saucers of pickles; two ditto of salt Chilis ; two wine-glasses of tooth

16

CAROUSE IN THE CABIN.

picks; two plates, with nine Sardines disposed star-ways in each; and castors, salt, pepper, plates, &c.

The meal devoured, the agent of the boat took his ease, one calf crossed over the opposite leg, his elbow on the table, picking his teeth with a large steel carving-fork. But our troubles had only begun. We retired early, but only to listen from our cabin to noise and clinking of glasses : at last, unable to sleep, we were fain to open the door and lie gazing, as well as the atmosphere would allow, at the scene. One tall thin fellow held the sway, and told a story of his defeating four brave Turks with a small knife. He produced the weapon, offering to sell it, much as he valued it, to a soft-looking fellow who gazed at him in open-mouthed wonder. His first story being believed, he bragged on till contradicted by another. He offered to bet the bet was caught at by a hard-visaged man, upon which the spokesman retired at last; and we dropped asleep, just as one poor fellow, who wore his spectacles up over his forehead, fell drunk on the deck, and was dragged to bed, offering to fight the company collectively.