MISHAP TO A FRENCH STEAMER.

17

It was not till late the next day that our captain would start the same scene was renewed in the cabin; smoking, songs, and quarrels. At last we were off, gliding past the Seraglio Point, swathed in snow, and looking like a man in summer clothes caught in a wintry storm. Among our secondclass passengers, was an Armenian convert to the Armenian missionaries. He spoke well and warmly of his cause, and related many painful stories of the persecutions endured for the faith's sake. Again we made a lengthened pause to endeavour to get a French packet-steamer off a mud bank, whither she had run during the night. She was lying quite comfortably on the bank, and our captain's unsailorlike efforts produced no effect, but that of snapping a few hawsers, and delaying the vessel. We received most of the Frenchman's passengers who, talking wildly of their adventures, called it a wreck. As we rounded the Janissary Point, and ran down the coast of Troy, the snow retired to the mountain tops, and the keen clear atmosphere displayed the scene to the fullest advantage.

We touched at Tenedos, a high barren-looking island, though producing the best wine of the Levant. The town is a straggling place with

VOL. I.

a large strong castle at its northern side. In the evening we halted at Baba Kalusi, a small Zebek town on the coast, with a fortress and a garrison beyond it. The coast is most beautiful; low points of golden sand darting out into the wintry sea; the rocky coast covered with luxuriant shrubs; the mountains behind rising gradually, till in the far distance they tower grandly to the sky. Mitylene, all-classic ground, lay right a-head.

As we entered the channel between this island and the main, the breeze freshened fast, and the vessel urged by her steam against it, jumped and kicked like a frightened steed. Our passengers soon succumbed; and save groans and other disagreeable noises, all was quiet. The next morning, the stillness around, the unthrobbing of the vessel, spoke of port. On mounting the deck, our vessel lay on the smooth waters of the Bay of Smyrna. The morning was clear and beautiful; the bright early sun threw a light of beauty over the lovely scene: the town crowding along the beach, shut in by grave sands; the mountains smiling round, of every hue and form; the verdant shores; the stately castle; the vast bay-all formed

POPULATION OF SMYRNA.

19

a scene worthy of the ornament of Asia, the crown of Ionia, the infidel Ismir.

Landing at a rotten, wooden wharf, we went to Mr. Milles' hotel, whose comforts and excellent cuisine made us forget the disagreeables we had endured. Smyrna has now become nearly a Frank town one large quarter is newly built. It has broad and regular streets, and handsome shops in the European fashion. The population is composed of Greeks, who half adopt European customs and dress, and Levantines. Of the latter there is a large proportion. Its bazaars, though old and Eastern, display little else but European goods, and are chiefly kept by Jews, who pester you as you walk, in bad English, or worse Italian. The Turkish quarter, to their right, situated under the hill on which the castle is built, retains its old features; but even there innovation is at work, and new houses with light brass knockers start up. The Jews' part is the oldest and quaintest. As yet, spite of reform and their ameliorated condition, they dare not make a display. Commerce is now thriving, and trade increases almost as rapidly as its merchants could wish.

The weather enabled us to make various excur

20

EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS.

sions. The sun was pleasantly warm, the evenings cool and refreshing; and it was pleasant to introduce oneself to Oriental life; albeit, somewhat Europeanised. Bournabat is a nice ride of some six or seven miles; in the environs are the summer residences of most of the Franks, who live here to escape the heat of summer. The town, or rather village, is Oriental, and contains a fine mosque and many pretty cafés. On our return, we rode through the Armenian quarter, almost destroyed a few years ago by fire, but now in process of rebuilding. The Saracenic bridge—a stone work -over the Meles is well worth a visit.

Here the camels pass on for their start on their arrival from the interior; here also they encamp and remain previous to their return to the interior. Along the banks of the river, commanding pretty views, are cafés. Here Turks make kief, and Christians show their finery on a Sunday. We visited also the Baths of Diana, now environed by a paper-mill; and difficult would it be in the modern building, with its long low apartments and vigorous activity, to trace any remains of the chaste goddess. May we hope that the impressions made on the paper there produced, do no discredit

THE TOWN OF SMYRNA.

21

to the virtuous spirits who considered one stolen glance to be expiated only by the death of the offender!

The town contains few traces of antiquity, and none of any note; here and there a wall, an arch, a column-but little more the extensive burialgrounds of the Turks are picturesque in the extreme. They never at least not for a very long period of years-turn up ground where a body has been buried; therefore as you walk beneath the stately cypresses that tower up so gracefully, you pass from the dead of old to the modern dead. Where the younger cypress springs, the tomb-stone is bright and new. Among the older graves, those of ages and generations gone exhibit the best ruins of ancient Smyrna; for pillar, carved work, and altar stone, have been culled from the ruins to mark where rest the dead. The scenery is fine; the mountains close round, and except the want of leaves to the trees, all looked fresh and green.

The sight most worthy to be seen, however, is the view from the castle itself; save the remains of the statue of Polycarp, the building has little interest. Of vast extent, great solidity, and in a fine