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Beyrout-Description by Lamartine-Meeting with old Friends-
Beyrout, as it now is-Policy of the Pasha-Progress of the
Turks-Influence of European Consuls-European Ball given
to the Pasha-Ball given to the Turkish Ladies-Their Acknow
ledgment of the Courtesy and its Effect-Second Tomb of
Jonas-Sidon-Old Friends there-Call of the Muezzin-
Prayers of the Mahomedans-Antiquities of Sidon-Its refusal
to admit Ibrahim Pasha-Lady Hester Stanhope and her Atten-
dant-Stud of the Emir Beshir.
PAGE
48
CHAPTER V.
Anxiety to reach Djouni-Antipater the Poot-The road to Djouni
-The Kiah and his Daughter-Late Residence of Lady Hester
Stanhope The Life of that Lady-Arab recollections of her-
General Lastanau and the Prophecies of Lady Hester-Her
eccentricity-Mischances on the Road-The great Hero of the
Christians-Palace of Beit ed Deen-The Country of the
Yezdeky-Ascent of Barouk-Plain of the Bekaa-Arrival at
Jeb Jenin-Dispute of the Geographers
63
CHAPTER VI.
Zea-Some Account of him-Prejudice of Jews against Dogs-Hills
around the Anti-Lebanon-Pharpar and Albana-The Keblah-
What are its Points-Mahomet and his Commentators---First
View of Damascus-Four Paradises of Persian Poets--Damas
cus one of them-Arrival at Damascus-Certain social changes
in the City-Multitude of Dogs-Their Persecution-Take
Refuge in the Hotel de Palmyra
CHAPTER VII.
Description of Damascene Inns-The Leewan-Luxury of Foun
tains-A Saunter about the Streets-Bazaars-Vendors and
their Goods-Varied Dresses and Appearance of those who
frequent the Bazaars-The Women-Distinctions of Dress in
Damascus The Term Hadgi-Mode of wearing the Hair-The
Beard-How the Beard was regarded by the Jews-Dresses of
the Women particularly described--Veils - Their Origin-
Dross of the Men described-Mosquos-Christian Churches-
Mosque of the Dancing Dervishes-Probable Population of
Damascus, and of whom composed-The Castle
80
90
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
Origin of Damascus-Supposed to be the Site of Eden-The Word
Paradise The Name Damascus-Sham-Ancient History of
Damascus Gallantry of the Saracens Saladin-Tamerlane-
Mehemet Ali and the Damascenes-Hospitality of the Damas-
cenes-Impressive Legend-Legend of the Four Young Men-
Anecdotes of Ibrahim Pasha-His Treatment of the Arabs--
Songs in praise and in ridicule of Ibrahim-Hospital-Anti-
quities of Damascus The so-called House of Ananias-
Window whence St. Paul escaped-Site of St. Stephen's Martyr-
dom-Houses of Damascus-The Caab-Purchase Horses—
Animals for Sale- The Auctioneer-Fanaticism of the Turks at
Damascus-Ancient Families there-Gardens-Prepare to bid
adieu to Damascus
-
xi
. 110
CHAPTER IX.
Last Look at Damascus-Scenery on the Journey-Cultivation of
the Soil-Douna-Dead Camels-An irregular Soldier-Pay of
his Force The Persian Shauzerdah and the English Ambassa-
dor, touching the relative Merits of British and Persian Soldiers
-Escort-Castal-Nepth-Jacobites-Houses of Nepth-Dis-
pense Medicines-Arrive at Karah-Opinion of England by the
Officers of the Escort-Interesting Ruins-Conversation with
the Villagers-Visits from the Sick-What they were pre-
scribed
133
CHAPTER X.
The Whirro-Sleight of hand of the Natives of Karah-Halt at a
large Khan-Description of it-Son of the Montselim-Firing
at a mark-Muskets of Damascus-Dine with the Montselim-
His Guests-Their Manners-The Bedawee and his Evolutions
-Mailed Bedawee Warriors-The Old Man and the Fire-
Beautiful Scenery-Hasiah-Populations of the Pashalics of
Aleppo and Damascus-The Euruque and Koords
144
CHAPTER XI.
Solitude-Enormous Burial-ground-Arrival at Homs-Host and
his Daughters-Lake of Kades-Mode of making Coffee-The
Greek Doctor and his Antiquities-The Christian and the Turk
compared-Stupidity of the Homs People exemplified-Ancient
Tomb-Vast Cemetery-Town and Castle of Homs-I explore
the latter-Asmodean View Cemetery of the Greeks-Greek
Church-Conduct of the Congregation-House of the Bishop-
Population of Homs--Visit the Bazaars- Prepare to start from
Homs with an Escort of Soldiers-Early History of Emessa
Bassianus--Heliogabalus Zenobia and her Husband-Close of
the Career of Zenobia-Heraclius and the Moslems - The
Cousin of Kaled-Chivalry of Kaled, "the Sword of God"-
Food of the Homs People.
155
CHAPTER XII.
Departure from Homs --Tel Bisse - Description of that village
Tel el Cartel and Djebel Mariam-Kubbes-Arrival at Hamath
-Our Reception-The Bazaars-Manufactures of Hamath---
The Orontes-How the Town is supplied with Water-The
Algerine Arab and his Stories-The provident Turk and his
silly Wife Hamath to Khan Shokune-Scenery on the way-
Two Algerine Moors and Abd el-Kader--Columns and Ruins-
Shokune to Marra-Corn-holes - Use they are put to--Beautiful
Ruins
. 179
CHAPTER XIII
The present village of Marra-Its Appearance-Inhabitants-A
Turkish Answer-Crusaders and Saracens Cruelties and Bar-
barities of Crusaders-Sacking of Marra under Bohemond-
Khan Sebel-Dishonesty of Turkish officials - Sermeim to
Aleppo-Approach to that City-Its Walls Mode of Life and
Habits of Aleppenes Bazaars and Streets of Aleppo-American
Missionaries there-Hungarians General Bem--Gate of Fair
Prospect Strange Custom of the Ladies of Aleppo-Visit to
Mussulman Tombs The Beautiful House of the Family of
Sada- General Indolence at Aleppo-Turkish Servants
Vaccination for the Aleppo Button-That Disease Described-
Curious Cure-The Slave and his Master.
195
CHAPTER XIV.
A Mussulman Funeral-Tomb of Abou Beker- The Rich Husband
and the Unwilling Wife -Youthful Betrothals --Visit to the
Castle of Aleppo-The Building Described -View from its
Summit-Veneration of the Turks for Stamboul-Costume of
Turkish Men and Women-A Picnic in a Turkish Garden-
Ibrahim Pasha-His Policy-His Conscription-His enlightened
Treatment of Christians-Turkish Sweets Of what composed
--Four Turkish Musicians-Their several Instruments-Final
Glance at Aleppo
214
CHAPTER XV.
Universality of Smoking in the East-Smoking in Persia-Story
of the Young Widower and the Holy Man-Substitute recom-
mended by the latter for a good Wife-When was Tobacco
introduced into the East? - Old Arabic MS. on Smoking -
Nimrod alleged to have been a Smoker-Mode of Smoking in
Ceylon-Antiquity of the use of Tobacco in China-Sale on an
alleged Prophecy by Mahomet that Tobacco would at some
future time be smoked in the East-Legend of Mahomet and
the Viper-Pipes used as Projectiles in War-Bhang and
Hashish Sultan Mahomet IV. prohibits Smoking-The Sultan
and the Saphi-Modes of Smoking in the East-Tobacco used
-Water-pipe-Nargilleh-How made-Their occasional Rich-
ness and Beauty of Manufacture-Persian Pipes
CHAPTER XVI.
Departure from Aleppo-Halam-Muselmeicha - Meheritei to Ze
Maled-Dilatoriness of Eastern Travelling-Advice to Eastern
Travellers A Spell to propitiate Relations to a Marriage-
Arrival at Aintab-Put under Quarantine Quarters there-
Purveyor of Stores in the Quarantine-His mode of keeping
Accounts-Doctor Smith, the American Missionary-Diffi-
culties attending his Settling at Aintab-His persecution by
the Armenians-Progress of Protestantism in Aintab-The
Bishop His School-Castle-View from the Wall-Conversion
of the Armenians-Their better Treatment of Women-Depar-
ture from Aintab
CHAPTER XVII.
xiii
PAGK
. 230
246
Naringa to Nezeb-Towns passed in our Way-Origin of Tels —
Great Victory of Ibrahim Pasha described-Nezeb-Pilgrims
from Bokhara First View of the Euphrates-Reflections sug-
gested by it-Ancient Passages of the Euphrates-Pass that
River-Town of Bir-Remains of its Castle-Spanish Monk-
Beautiful Scenery-Detention from the straying of the Baggage
Horses-A Pasha-His Courtesy and Kindness-Nobbagee, or
Musician-Charmelieh-Its curious Construction-Extraor-
dinary Well-Arab Mode of churning Butter-Arrive at the
ancient Ur of the Chaldees, now Orfa-Hospitality of the En-
glish Consular Agent-His Opinion of the Arab of the Desert. 263
CHAPTER XVIII.
Eastern Bath-How thoroughly to enjoy it-Visit the Pasha-
Incongruous Dresses of his Attendants-Arrangements for
xiv
crossing the Desert-Town of Orfa-Well of Abraham-Sacred
Carp-Inquiry as to the ancient Worship of Fish-Mosque and
College of the Patriarch described-Birthplace and Tomb of
Abraham-Moslem Veneration for Abraham-Account of the
Patriarch in the Book of Jasher-Terah and Nimrod-Caves
and Tombs in the Rocks described-Pillars of the Throne of
Nimrod-Castle of Orfa-Its present Condition-Vicissitudes
of the City in ancient times-Its various Conquerors Present
State of Orfa-Its rude Cotton Printing-Its Manufactures-
Dresses of the People-Diversity of Languages heard at Orfa. 282
CHAPTER XIX.
Leave Orfa for Haran-Tels and Barrows on the Way-Visit Tel
Sultan-High Tower of Haran--Description of an Arab Tent
-Its Furniture-Sheik Abdallah-Some Notice of his Tribe
-Alarm of an Arab Attack - All Labour performed by
Women-Dress of the Bedouins-Town of Haran-Its Ruins
-Description of the Tower-Another Alarm of Arabs-Salt
Stones, anciently used for building-Arab Indifference to Prayer
-The Mosque-Filial Affection of an Arab-Christian Worship
in the Desert-South Gate of Haran-Account of that Town
by Pliny-Description of the Castle - Repose at a Well-
Women come to draw Water-How they resembled what we
read of Rebekah and Rachel-Departure from Haran
CHAPTER XX.
300
Haran the Site of Nahor-Site of the Defeat of Crassus-Haran in
the twelfth century-The right-hand man of an Arab Chief-
His dress described-A fight in an Arab village-The Sheik
Dahhal and his Son-Gradual declension and probable extinc-
tion of Arab tribes-The Agedach tribe-History of the Sheik
Dahhal-The young Sheik and his Mare-Arab Saddles and
mode of Riding-Arab Horses-An Introduction to the Sheik
Dahhal-His manners-His character-An Arab prisoner-
His treatment-Bargaining for a Conveyance across the Desert. 319
CHAPTER XXI.
Difficulties urged against crossing the Desert-The Sheik Dahhal
on the unchangeableness of the Arabs-Confessions of Arab
plundering prepossessions-Anecdotes in illustration of them-
Sheik Abdallah on the milking of pigs-Burden of a Song of
Arab children-The magnanimous Guide-His violent Return
to Worldliness-Transitory beauty of Arab Women-A Bridal
Party-Arab mode of contracting Marriage-Indifference of