47. Rome, the metropolis of the Papal dominions, and the seat of it's government, occupies both banks of the Tiber, but stands principally on the eastern side of the river: it is still divided into fourteen regions, or rioni as they are now called. The seven eminences on which the ancient city was built, are now covered with vineyards, cornfields, or villas, the close population being confined to the level tract between the eminences and the river. The length of this part is about two miles, and it's breadth from one to one and a half; but the whole space inclosed by walls approaches to the form of a square, and is about eleven miles in circuit. It possesses many features of the ancient city. The same roads lead to the gates, the same aqueducts pour the same streams into the fountains; the same great churches that received the masters of the world under the emperors, are still open to their descendants; and the same venerable walls, that enclosed so many temples and palaces in the reign of Aurelian, still exist. No city in Europe is superior to Rome in the number and magnificence of it's churches. The most remarkable are St. Peter's, the Pantheon, and the seven patriarchal Basilica, or cathedrals, all distinguished for their architecture. The cathedral church of St. Peter is the chef d'œuvre of Italy, the largest and most beautiful church in the world, and in magnitude of outline and variety of parts, far exceeds any edifice constructed by the ancient Greeks or Romans. It is 720 feet long, 510 broad, and 500 high from the pavement to the top of the cross. Pope Julius the 2d laid the first stone of it in 1506, but it was not finished till 1621: the most celebrated architects, Bramante, Raphael, Michael Angelo, Vignola, Maderno, and Bernini, have displayed their talents in this great work; and no fewer than eighteen successive popes were employed in it's construction. The total expense has been estimated at 12,000,000l. sterling. The hall is the most spacious ever constructed by human art, extending upwards of 600 feet in length. But of all the objects of this admirable edifice, the most surprising is the dome, the vault of which rises to the height of 400 feet, and extends over the spectator like a firmament. The Pantheon, or Rotonda, as it is now called, from it's circular form, originally dedicated to all the gods, is now a temple dedicated to all the saints by Gregory the 4th. It is distinguished for its solidity and the beauty of it's proportions, and is the most perfect of the old Roman temples now remaining: it is about 147 feet in height, and 160 in diameter, with a spacious dome, receiving the light from one great aperture in the centre. But a still more imposing object is the Colosseum, or amphitheatre of Vespasian, the largest edifice of this kind ever constructed: about one half of it's external circuit yet remains, and it is by far the most stupendous monument of antiquity in the chaos of magnificent and ruined buildings with which this once mighty city is crowded. The three palaces of the pope are the Lateran, Quirinal, and Vatican. The Lateran is of great extent, but the main body of the building has been long converted into a hospital for orphans. The Quirinal, from its height and salubrity, is now the summer residence of the popes: this splendid palace likewise bears the name of Monte Cavallo, from two marble groups in front of it, each representing a horse of colossal proportions, under the guidance of a youth. The Vatican, the winter residence of the pope, is situated on an eminence near St. Peter's, and is connected with it; it is a vast irregular pile of building, erected by various architects at different eras, and forming, not one but an assemblage of edifices: it is said to occupy the site of Nero's golden palace. Under the pontificates of Clement 14th and Pius 6th, this palace was enriched with a numerous collection of antiquities and magnificent statues. The library is one of the largest in the world, and is estimated to contain half a million of volumes, and 50,000 manuscripts, but the former number is no doubt grossly exaggerated. 48. Porto, at the mouth of the Tiber, has lost all it's value and interest, except what is connected with it as occupying the site of the beautiful Port of Augustus, opposite to Ostia. The great port of the Papal Dominions upon the Tuscan Sea, is Civita Vecchia, nearly 30 miles to the N. of the Tiber; it is one of the best harbours belonging to the Pope, and is the place where his holiness keeps his gallies. The other great harbour is Ancona on the shores on the Gulf of Venice; it is by far the most flourishing commercial seaport in the whole state, and it's inhabitants are more active and enterprising than the generality of the Italians. About 10 miles to the S. of Ancona, a mile or two from the sea-shore, stands Loreto; it is a mean little insignificant town, built upon a hill, surrounded with a rampart and deep ditch, and defended by towers, without, however, being of sufficient strength to sustain a siege. It owes what little importance it possesses to the idolatrous superstition of the church of Rome: for here is the Santa Casa, or holy house, said to have been inhabited by the Virgin Mary in Nazareth. This house, formerly nothing but a plain brick building, though now encased with the finest Carrara marble, is 32 feet long, 13 broad, and 18 high; it is pretended, that in the year 1291 it was conveyed by certain angels from Galilee to Tersato in Dalmatia, and thence, three years afterwards, to Reccanati, on the coast of Italy; but eight months afterwards, this site being found inconvenient, it took another flight of a thousand yards, and settled on a piece of ground belonging to a certain lady called Lauretta. Here the triple crown has thought proper to allow it to remain ever since, as the speculation has answered amazingly well the number of devotees who visit it for the purpose of absolving themselves from vows, obtaining relief from sickness or other distress, and seeking remission of their sins, is very great; before the Reformation, it is said that more than 200,000 pilgrims visited the shrine annually, and laid at the feet of the idol the best offerings they were able to present. It contains a cedar wood statue of the Virgin, covered with precious stones, which, on particular days, is dressed out in all sorts of tawdry finery. The inhabitants of Loreto, about 7,000 in number, are employed in the pious manufacture of rosaries, crosses, relics, and any other article with which they can beguile the credulous and the miserable. Bologna is the second town in the Papal Territory, and stands in it's northern part, no great distance from the frontiers of the Duchy of Modena : it is of an oblong form, about six miles in circuit, and is surrounded by a brick wall. No town in Italy, excepting Rome, is said to contain more valuable paintings by the first masters. Bologna is likewise famous for it's university, which was founded at a very early period; it first drew the attention of Europe to the Roman law, after the slumber of the middle ages, and hence received the title of Mater Studiorum: it obtained such renown, that at the beginning of the 13th century it is said to have been attended by 10,000 students, but this number has now dwindled to about 400. 49. THE REPUBLIC OF SAN MARINO is situated in the N. E. part of Italy: it is completely environed by the dominions of the pope, and lies about midway between the grand duchy of Tuscany and the Gulf of Venice, ten miles from Rimini, on the shores of the latter. It's territory is confined to a mountain about 2,000 feet high, with a small tract of country at it's base, comprising about forty square miles. This inconsiderable state, which has enjoyed almost uninterrupted tranquillity for thirteen centuries, and whose sole ambition is to be free, was founded during the fifth century by Marino, a Dalmatian by birth, and a mason by trade. After having finished some repairs in the neighbouring town of Rimini, he retired to this mountain, where he led the life of a hermit, and subjected himself to all it's austerities. The princess of the country, admiring his extraordinary sanctity, made him a present of the mountain, and a number of inhabitants resorting hither, he established the republic distinguished by his name: after his death he received the honours of canonization. The whole history of the state is comprised in two purchases made of a neighbouring prince; in the aid it afforded the pope in a war against the lord of Rimini; in it's subjugation by his holiness, and it's subsequently throwing off his yoke. It is composed of the town of San Marino, and two neighbouring villages, and contains a population of about 7,000 souls: it is governed by it's own laws, and acknowledges the pope as a protector, but not as a sovereign. The executive power is in the hands of 300 elders, and in a senate composed of twenty patricians, twenty citizens, and twenty peasants, with two presidents, or gonfalonieri, who are elected every three months: these two magistrates have a guard of thirty men, but if the liberty of the republic should be threatened, every citizen turns soldier. CHAPTER XIV. ITALIA MERIDIONALIS. 1. APULIA was bounded on the N. by Tifernus fl. Biferno, on the E. and S. by the sea, and on the W. by Bradanus fl. Bradano, and the Eastern limits of Samnium: to the N. it bordered on the Frentani, to the S. on Lucania, and to the W. on Samnium. It contained a small part of Sannio, the Capitanata, Bari, and Otranto; in all, about 6.800 square miles. It was called Iapygia by the Greeks, but both this name and that of Apulia were applied in a much more confined sense: Apulia Proper comprehended the Northern part of the province, as far as Cerbalus fl.; then followed Daunia, reaching as far S. as Vultur M. and Cannæ; Peucetia, extending to Egnatia, and the upper course of the Bradanus; and Iapygia, including the remainder of the province. Apulia was famed for it's wool, and is said to have derived it's name from Apulus, an ancient king of the country; it's inhabitants were probably descended from the Osci and Illyrian Liburni. 2. It's principal rivers were Frento Fortore, Cerbalus Cervaro, Aufidus 2 Ofanto, and Bradanus Bradano; of these, the three first flow from the Apennines N. E. into the Adriatic Sea, and the last S. E. into the G. of Taranto. In the North Eastern part of Apulia was the lofty Garganus M.3 Monte S. Angelo, terminating in Garganum Pr. Testa del Gargano: Vultur Mons, close on the limits of Daunia, Peucetia, Samnium, and Lucania, is a part of the Apennine chain, now called Volture. Off the Northern shores of the province were Diomedea Iæ. Tremiti, to which the companions of Diomed flew, after having been changed into birds; to one of these islands, called Diomedea or Tremitus S. Domenico, Augustus banished his grand-daughter Julia, who died there. 8 3. Amongst the chief cities of APULIA PROPRIA were, Larinum Larino Vecchio, at one time in the possession of the Frentani; Geronium Girone, taken by Hannibal, who had a sharp contest here with Fabius and Minucius; Teanum Apulum Civitate, a Roman Colony; Collatia Collatina; Matinus 6 Mattinata, where the philosopher Archytas was shipwrecked, and buried; Uria Manfredonia, on Urias Sinus G.of Manfredonia. Sipontum S. Maria di Siponto was called Sipus by the Greeks, and is said to have derived it's name from the cuttle-fish (Sepia) there thrown on shore; it was colonized by the Romans, and had a large, though inconvenient port, now called Pantano Salso: Arpi9 Arpa, called formerly Argyrippa and Argos Hippium, was a large and populous city: Luceria Lucera contained a famous temple of Minerva; it was noted for it's wool 10, and was a place highly important to the possessors of Apulia: the three last cities are said to have been founded by Diomed. 4. The name of DAUNIA was said to be derived from Daunus, the father-in-law of Diomed, who, on his return from Troy, here founded another kingdom in the country round Aufidus fl.: Apulia Proper is frequently included in * Atque iterun in Teucros Ætolis surgit ab Arpis Id. XI. 246. speaking of Diomed: Ille urbem Argyripam, patriæ cognomine gentis, 10 Te lanæ prope nobilem Tonsæ Luceriam, non citharæ, decent, Sil. Ital. VII. 633. Virg. Æn. X. 28. Hor. Carm. 111. xv. 14. the general appellation Daunia. Amongst it's principal places were Salapia Salpi, on the shore of Salapina Palus 11 L. di Salpi, founded by the Rhodians, under a chief named Elpias; it was, at one time, the emporium of Arpi, and was the place to which Hannibal withdrew after the battle of Cannæ; Cannæ 12 Canne, memorable for the defeat and slaughter of the Romans by Hannibal, B. c. 216; the plain where the battle was fought is said to have been formerly called Campus Diomedis 13, and through it ran the little stream Vergellus, over which Hannibal made a bridge of the bodies of the Romans 14. Canusium Canosa was famed for it's wool, as well as for it's manufacture of cloth 15, and was the place to which the remains of the Roman army fled, after their defeat at Cannæ; Vibinum is now Bovino; at Herdonia 16 Ordona, the Romans were twice defeated by Hannibal. Asculum Ascoli, with the surname Apulum, was also remarkable for an obstinate battle, which was fought there between Pyrrhus and the Romans: Venusia Venosa was a Roman colony, and the birth-place of Horace 17, and near it, at Palazzo, was Fons Blandusiæ, or Bandusiæ 18. 5. PEUCETIA 19 is fabled to have received it's name from Peucetus, son of Lycaon, king of Arcadia, who migrated to Italy with his brother Enotrus; it's coast was "Quas recipit Salapina palus, et subdita Sipus 12 Quid Cremeræ legio et Cannis consumpta juventus, 13 Sil. Ital. VIII. 241. Lucan. V. 377. Juv. Sat. II. 155. 14 Flor. II. 6, 15 Martial (XIV. cxxvii.) speaking of a travelling cloke, says: Hæc tibi turbato Canusina simillima mulso Canusium appears to have been of Grecian origin, to which circumstance Horace probably alludes: Canusini more bilinguis. Sat. I. x. 30. From Horace, also, (Sat. I. v. 91) we know, that it was badly supplied with water, which defect was in after time remedied by Hadrian. |