CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

THE LEVANT.-Voyage to Beyrout-The Holy Land-Quarantine-Syrian
Family-Dr. Wilson-His account of Petra-Of the Jews-Hotel at
Beyrout-Its Inmates-Kareela

PAGE

. 1

CHAPTER II.

SYRIAN SCENERY.-My Cottage near Beyrout-Views-Vernon Frigate-
Dog River-English residents-Silk-worms-Style of travel-Beyrout

CHAPTER IIL

DJOUNI, AND LADY HESTER STANHOPE.-Pine Forest of Beyrout-Bivouacs -Scenery of the Lebanon-Djouni-Lady Hester Stanhope-Her history-And death

CHAPTER IV.

TYRE, SIDON, AND ACRE.--Sidon-Its History-Robber haunt-Tyre-Its history-Bedouins-Farm-house-Bombardment of Acre

CHAPTER V.

THE BIVOUC, AND MOUNT CARMEL-Our life in Syria-River Belus-
Monastery-Jean Battista-Elijah--Syrian yachting.

CHAPTER VI.

JAFFA AND JUDEA.-Storm at Sea-Jaffa-Convent-Consul-Ramleh-
Hill Country-First View of Jerusalem

CHAPTER VII.

JERUSALEM.-Without-Within-The Mount of Olives-Mosque of Omar

-Holy Sepulchre

13

21

30

40

49

59

CHAPTER VIII.

THE MONK AND THE MISSIONARY.-Solitaries-Cenobites-Templars

Hospitallers-Latins-Greeks-Armenians-Sacred Fire-ConventsRelics-Church of England Mission-Medical Aid Society-The Church at Jerusalem

PAGE

. 69

CHAPTER IX.

THE PILGRIM.-Christian-Moslem-Scenes of visit-Residence at Jerusalem-Abou Habib-The Jordan

CHAPTER X.

BETHLEHEM.-Guardian Sheikh-Tombs of the Kings-Bethlehem-Madonna-Church of St. Helena-Women of Bethlehem-Arab HorseAssassin-Chapel Scene- Adventure-Armenian hospitality - Wed

82

. 92

MAR SABA AND THE DEAD SEA.-Bedouins-Convent-Scenery-Dead
Sea-Valley of the Jordan-Jericho

CHAPTER XII.

THE ARAB AND HIS HORSE.-Arabia-Chivalry-Anecdote of Elfy Bey-
Arab honesty-Chastity-Mode of life-The Horse-Anecdotes

CHAPTER XIII.

. 103

. 114

THE JEW.-Prophecy-The Lost Tribes-Syrian-European-Their Creed-Sadducees-Character-Arab-Gathering to Jerusalem-Jewish Home and Ladies-Synagogue-Character-Farewell to Judea 124

CHAPTER XIV.

THE LEBANON.-Beyrout-Departure-Route-Cælesyria-Derr el Kamar-Beteddeen-Visit to the Emir's Son-The Bath-Mountain Scenery-Eagles-Gezeen-Emir's Palace at Hasbeya-Emir AfendiMount Hermon-Naval Diary.

135

CHAPTER XV.

DAMASCUS.-Without-Within-Convent-Women Bazaars-Magne

tism

153

CHAPTER XVI.

BAALBEC.-Mountain Journey-Zebdani-Baalbec-Solomon-Tradition
-Eastern Travel-The Dream-Frontispiece-Quarrel - Mountain
Stream

PAGE

164

CHAPTER XVII.

THE CEDARS.-View from the summit of the Lebanon-The Forest-
Encampment-Bshirrai-Adventure with Smugglers .

CHAPTER XVIII.

. 171

CONSTANTINOPLE.-Turkish Steamer-Persian Princes-Women of Cy-
prus-Rhodes-Dardanelles - Moonlight Cruise with the Persians-
Quarantine at Kartal-Stamboul-The Bosphorus-Buyukderé-Black
Sea-Cyanean Rocks-Unkiar Skelessi-Caïque-Ames Damnés—
Walls of Constantinople-Palæologus-Palace of Belisarius-The Porte
-The Sultan Mahmoud-Forest of Belgrade-Pic-nic-The Hellespont 179

CHAPTER XIX.

GREECE. Smyrna-The Cyclades-Syra-Quarantine-Delos-Climate
-Pantheism Athens-Rome-Temple of Jupiter-Acropolis-Pros-
pects of Greece-Her King-Her Population-Her War-Anecdotes
-Palikari-Armatoli-Revolution-Romaic-Farewell to Greece

IONIAN ISLANDS.-Zante

bania-Farewell

CHAPTER XX.

Ithaca-Leucadia-Cephalonia-Corfu-Al

196

. 217

APPENDIX.

The Mountain Tribes-Fakreddin-Emir Bescheer-Inferior EmirsMaronites-Druses-Shehab Family-Metoualis-Objects of Inquiry 237 Government of Corfu

241